All touring bikes up to 2001, the change came in '02
using the lowering blocks for the shocks really upped the chances of breakage
Mk beat me to it

 

Wow, I had no idea. I'll have to inspect my Fatboy. I just did a rear tire swap and didn't notice anything, but I didn't look too closely either.

 

Other models besides touring have this issue. Not sure if Dyna or Softail.

 

The brakes. Definitely upgrade the brakes especially if you’re taking a passenger. The single piston calipers suck

 

Not really, and if fluid is fresh in brake system front and back/ master cylinder plungers not aged out, then dual up front and singe in the back even on the older bikes, has the brake bias correct and more than enough stopping power.

As for stopping power, if you want greater, then go semi metallic pads, while if you don't want them as grabby, then go organic pads instead.
Sinister pads would put the grip about the middle of these two.

As for the newer bikes with more pistons per calipers, yes adds more gripping force,and just allows for the use of organic pads to have the griping force of say sinister pads Truth is, with semi metallic pads on them, and not having an ABS system in play, would be flat spotting the tires with the amount of times that you would locking up the tires, even under normal use and standard grip tires in play.

To be blunt, stopping power all comes down to the grip of the tires to start with, then the pads in play next.
The amount of force that that the calipers can apply, all comes back to the two, since too easy to install pads on a bike that can exceed the amount off tire grip (even with single piston calipers in play), and just means that your going to lock up the tires just way faster,with the braking system, now just exceeding the amount of tire grip available in the first place.

So on the older bikes, tires where D402's and if your going to run tires of that grip, then fresh fluid and standard HD or organic pads, has you right as rain.
If your going to go with more grippy tires, then can go to either sinister, or even Semi metallic pads, which both will have more gripping power themselves, and will keep up the increased grip of the sticker tires, to keep the braking system in check as well.


And to throw this in, make sure that the working heat range of the pads your going to install, are the correct ones for the working temps that your going to be using the bike for. Some race pads do not start to grip correctly until the heat range of the rotor and pads are well above 300*, which means most of the street riding your going to do, will not have the pads biting correctly, if if there grip coefficients are off the charts.



Different motorcycle type pad compounds,
https://www.galferusa.com/products/pads/

 

I agree with what Dani said above. Sintered pads will lock up any wheel without a lot of lever pull. If you want even more braking power with less lever pressure install braided brake lines. The rubber lines waste some energy by expanding under pressure.

 

Suspension, bars, and seat are the most bang for your buck comfort mods IMO.
If you're going into the motor you may as well drop a decent cam in it too. Otherwise, it's a pretty solid platform as is.

 

I agree , and yes as mentioned the stock units will lock the wheel.
What they don`t offer is any"feel" for modulation for NOT locking the wheel
These Wilwoods were a vast improvement for me.
Fairly inexpensive @ Summit Racing

 

1996 EVO is a solid engine. However work others may have done to it can cause nightmares. The 5 speed is a solid transmission.

The 1996 stock can be sluggish for two up at todays road speeds..

I have an unmolested 1996 EVO that I still ride.

 

I ended up installing a S&S v111 to haul my wife and I with bags and touring pack. I am still finishing the build.