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I don't know if the later models come that way. Mine is a 1989 FXR Super glide.
I don't know later models either is why I asked what you had.
Originally Posted by TwiZted Biker
That tab #30 almost always needs tweaking when aftermarket stuff gets used. Don't kid yourself.
Originally Posted by Spanners39
Yiu don't bend the switch, you bend the tab on the brake lever, that is how you adjust them.
I've not done much Shovel work but I just can't get my eyes around what you all mean. Nothing to move on the switch except the plunger in/out. If you mean "roll" #30 so it lines up with with the switch plunger then yeah, I can see that. That tab is short on an Evo and bending it won't do much for you besides hurt your feelings.
OK, looked up some photos. On Shovels the switch housing screw to the master cylinder. On Evos, the switches are separate halves. Loosen 2 screws and you can slide in or out a little bit, moving the switch (24) closer or away from the tab to get the light on or off when wanted.
We are in the Evo section, right? LOL It's all good.
I don't know later models either is why I asked what you had.
I've not done much Shovel work but I just can't get my eyes around what you all mean. Nothing to move on the switch except the plunger in/out. If you mean "roll" #30 so it lines up with with the switch plunger then yeah, I can see that. That tab is short on an Evo and bending it won't do much for you besides hurt your feelings.
OK, looked up some photos. On Shovels the switch housing screw to the master cylinder. On Evos, the switches are separate halves. Loosen 2 screws and you can slide in or out a little bit, moving the switch (24) closer or away from the tab to get the light on or off when wanted.
We are in the Evo section, right? LOL It's all good.
My Shovel has Evo switch gear, the paddle on #30 can be bent towards or away from the brake light switch to make it work properly, my brake light switch would flash on and off on the road and I adjusted it so it works properly. If the switch ever fails I will put a Goodridge hydraulic switch on the master cylinder. Breathe deep and learn to believe ......
My Shovel has Evo switch gear, the paddle on #30 can be bent towards or away from the brake light switch to make it work properly, my brake light switch would flash on and off on the road and I adjusted it so it works properly. If the switch ever fails I will put a Goodridge hydraulic switch on the master cylinder. Breathe deep and learn to believe ......
I don't know later models either is why I asked what you had.
I've not done much Shovel work but I just can't get my eyes around what you all mean. Nothing to move on the switch except the plunger in/out. If you mean "roll" #30 so it lines up with with the switch plunger then yeah, I can see that. That tab is short on an Evo and bending it won't do much for you besides hurt your feelings.
OK, looked up some photos. On Shovels the switch housing screw to the master cylinder. On Evos, the switches are separate halves. Loosen 2 screws and you can slide in or out a little bit, moving the switch (24) closer or away from the tab to get the light on or off when wanted.
We are in the Evo section, right? LOL It's all good.
THe switch in the housing is fixed, doesn't move, you don't mess with that. There's enough variation with aftermarket stuff that sometimes the arm on #30 need's to be tweeked occasionly to get it to activate the plunger on the switch.
The Gilroy Indians used this control setup, we were constantly cleaning up bad fits and adjusting stuff as it wore a little bit. I still have 1/2 a 5 gal bucket full of those we just swapped out for warrenty work.
Last edited by TwiZted Biker; May 1, 2024 at 10:32 PM.
The switch in the housing is fixed, doesn't move, you don't mess with that. There's enough variation with aftermarket stuff that sometimes the arm on #30 need's to be tweeked occasionly to get it to activate the plunger on the switch.
The Gilroy Indians used this control setup, we were constantly cleaning up bad fits and adjusting stuff as it wore a little bit. I still have 1/2 a 5 gal bucket full of those we just swapped out for warrenty work.
Yes, I agree. I've always been able to simply loosen the 2 housing bolts and slide it w/throttle tube either inboard closer toward the m/c housing or toward the end of the bars (only takes small bit of movement either way) to makes the switch activate correctly.
Too far inward, won't come on. Move toward end of bars too much, on all the time. Most time guys just lube or change cables, it's messed up but a quick and easy fix. At least always has been for me.
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