When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
This is why I was going the tank route."Bike rode great for 2 klm then stalled and backfire - removed gas cap waited 5 minutes
bike rode well no issues with cap off on wey back home"
They used the same cap '80 thru '88 (61083-79) and my '87 is vented thru the cap. The hose on the left goes to an opening in the corner of the closet to drain water or spilled fuel.
There's an 1/8 steel tube connected to the fuel neck. I assume that's the same pipe that runs to the right rear corner under the plastic panel. Mine is hard soldered closed, otherwise any slosh would leak out there, regardless of the cap.
I'll not pull my seat but will try to get a real photo of the rest of it tomorrow. Look at yours again Hess, when you get time.
Yellow = drain
Red = 1/8" steel tube blocked off
OK, I guess mine is clogged and it never bothers anything, as when I remove the cap after a hot run I get a big "woosh."
New battery, ran OK. Stopped after a while. That's why I was wondering if the charging system is OK.
Thanks for responding
Very interesting as what you say is as per my bike
Left tube i was aware is overflow Right nipple has a hose connected and was blocked and i unblocked it !!!!
Last night i checked my gas cap and it was "Sealed" i pressed in the plunger which was tight and i can freely blow air through it
When i get home tonight i will take it for a run and keep an eye on the plunger in the gas cap
Thanks for the part numbers , quick search only comes up with from USA however i will check with an auto shop as Gates is popular here
Cheers
Wayne
Yes, that looks like the original, "from the factory" fuel cap, though I'm surprised how good it looks on the bottom side. You should only be able to draw (suck) air from the bottom and not blow.
I recommend you keep fuel level below the frame tunnel until the nipple is plugged and the cap replaced. Hope you can find one there.
Maybe get lucky and that'll fix the original problem. If not, lot of guys here with tons of experience can help you along with other potential issues already mentioned.
Thanks heaps to everyone who are helping , and a couple of Aussies too !!
I rode yesterday down my road with (thought to be fixed gas cap) for less than 100 Metres and stalled, removed cap after a while started without out gas cap on
Rode 20 min stopped put on gas cap and it did not want to start, removed it and started no problemo !
Rode 15 min to fuel station filled up and tried start with full tank and gas cap on - no start , remove cap start
Was riding with out gas cap and bike running great and im thinking fantastic buy a new gas cap and all is well
After 15 klm (10 Miles) i open up throttle and after passing some cars bike stalls out , i try clutch and bump starting with no Joy so roll to side of road
Wait 5 minutes and rode home 10 klm no problem (Gas cap off whole time)
So thinking as have been advised that electrical may be an issue, i have one elec gremlin i know of
the bike used to start in the "Ignition" position and now does not. it will only very occasionally
Always starts in "lights" Position
So this weekend end i plan on
Search again for intake leaks
Full electrical check
I am suspecting ignition switch but am yet to go through schematics
Pull Carb and check float components for wear and replace if needed (Float was set with a protractor just like on Youtube
change fuel lines to new
Photos of new plugs after approximately 30-40 Miles
Will take a few days to get through testing so will update when i get a chance to run again
Could be ignition switch contacts just need a good cleaning, and why you are losing power to the rest of the bike as the corroded point warms up to lose continuity.
With problem still happening with gas cap off, does not sound like a gas lose problem, unless there is a problem with vacuum petcock like it vacuum line cracked that heat is causing problems, or just enough derbies in the tank, that is blocking the petcock, or crap in the carb, that its blocking the jets instead.
So gas/spark/air needed for motor to run, air does not sound like the problem since no submarine'g it in a lake, and now need to figure out if its fuel or spark.
Could be ignition switch contacts just need a good cleaning, and why you are losing power to the rest of the bike as the corroded point warms up to lose continuity.
With problem still happening with gas cap off, does not sound like a gas lose problem, unless there is a problem with vacuum petcock like it vacuum line cracked that heat is causing problems, or just enough derbies in the tank, that is blocking the petcock, or crap in the carb, that its blocking the jets instead.
So gas/spark/air needed for motor to run, air does not sound like the problem since no submarine'g it in a lake, and now need to figure out if its fuel or spark.
Evo and up Touring bikes don't use the antique bar/contact switch.
They didn't start using vacuum petcock until the early/mid 90's
Dropping the petcock and checking the screen on an older bike is always a good idea.
Originally Posted by Aussie_87_FLHTC
Ok
when ignition is on ignition starter button works 1 out of 10 times
I have been riding on lights position
would this issue cause bike to stop ???
and seriously do i have to remove whole inner fairing to remove ignition switch !!!!
You're making this too simple to diagnose
I don't want to make a 3 page explanation so just trust me - remove the outer fairing. There are 8 - 10 screws, seems the ones on the bottom are sneaky, hard to see. When that's off, the breakers are left to right; COM, IGN, LITE, ACC. I'm wagering the posts on the breakers are corroded and/or loose.
Many guys here replace the breakers but they may be hard to find there. My '87 had original breakers. When you're near done, leave the short, green jumper totally off. It insures the lights are on when the ignition is on. Leave it off To test the starter button or leave off permanently.
If you're not 100% confident that takes care if it, find the connector between the main harness and right handlebar harness. Check all the pins and sockets for dirty, burned or loose. While you're draining gas and checking petcock strainer, pull the tank and clean and tighten the ignition coil wires.
When you're done, have a few stubbies and kick back.
Evo and up Touring bikes don't use the antique bar/contact switch.
They didn't start using vacuum petcock until the early/mid 90's
Dropping the petcock and checking the screen on an older bike is always a good idea.
You're making this too simple to diagnose
I don't want to make a 3 page explanation so just trust me - remove the outer fairing. There are 8 - 10 screws, seems the ones on the bottom are sneaky, hard to see. When that's off, the breakers are left to right; COM, IGN, LITE, ACC. I'm wagering the posts on the breakers are corroded and/or loose.
Many guys here replace the breakers but they may be hard to find there. My '87 had original breakers. When you're near done, leave the short, green jumper totally off. It insures the lights are on when the ignition is on. Leave it off To test the starter button or leave off permanently.
If you're not 100% confident that takes care if it, find the connector between the main harness and right handlebar harness. Check all the pins and sockets for dirty, burned or loose. While you're draining gas and checking petcock strainer, pull the tank and clean and tighten the ignition coil wires.
When you're done, have a few stubbies and kick back.
Photo shamelessly stolen from daven9113
Well i lost the last post i just did
so you may see it twice
just had a 1 hour ride
no stalling
gas cap on
only problem was run on after i shut it off
will back off idle
todays fun
circuit breakers all good
ignition wires could get a 1/4 turn out of them
Now ignition position works everytime
petcock had terrible flow in on
great flow in Res
pulled apart and now has flow and a great leak
new one to come
check coil and discovered loose nut on terminal
fixed
found lonely wire hanging in the breeze
checked schematic and is from VOES
Fixed
checked earths and hot the road
lets see what happens next ride
i suspect it was ignition and or coil connection
but gas cap had confused me
i did re-block the nipple i un-blocked
thank you legends for all the pointers
i m sure i have more loose stuff to find and definitely will have more questions
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.
