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As for this,
would be pulling the starter apart, to check out the starter clutch assmbly, to either pull is apart clean and relube the one way clutch pack, or just replace it if you don't have the tools to pull ball bearings cleanly without distroying them to get the one way clutch parts in the middle of the gear section. https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/RV8AA...6yb/s-l960.png
Hence reason for the starter clutch, is when the engine starts, allows the starter pawl gear to free wheel as the flywheel teeth are moving faster, and so the starter gears is not dragging/ ripping flywheel teeth off the hub gears as it retracting back off the hub gears.
Note the retracting part, since the teeth on your flywheel gear are not ripped apart all the way across, but just half way back on the retracting side of the teeth/not on the pulling engagement side of the pawl gear teeth, telling you you have problems with the starter one way clutch in the starter that is causing the hub teeth damage.
I tore into it this past weekend, I found some damage but it wasn't related to the clutch. There was more metal than I like to see when I drained the primary and even more in the bottom of the cover. Turns out 8 teeth on the starter ring were sheared off. Really glad I found this now and not while out on a ride. I ordered a Compu-Fire 84/10 starter gear set and the tools needed to pull the clutch hub, compensator and chain. So far the rest of the components look good. Once I get everything back together with the new clutch pack I should be good to go. I am going to install some 4ga battery cables too to make sure the starter is getting full power, the battery is only a couple seasons old. Wish me luck as I dig in deeper.
If anything, maybe the Hub bearing. Anything other than that just do the clutch and spring plate upgrade and your good to go. That was the first year that basket came out and is very reliable.
No spring plate on a '98 thankfully, HD went to a judder spring setup that year which is far more reliable.
No spring plate on a '98 thankfully, HD went to a judder spring setup that year which is far more reliable.
Wow don't know how I missed that.. I clearly know that 97 was the last year of the older style clutch and basket with a spring plate.. totally my bad.. Sorry....
Clutch out of basket, get rear tire up off ground to spin center hub in basket with rear tire, against stationary outer shell that primary chain and engine are holding in place, and make sure that outer front face of clutch basket is not dancing in and out with center hub being spinning. 1/16" to 1/8" of outer hub face dancing in and out of full inner hub rotation, kind of normal, but when your taking 1/2' or more of the outer basket front face dipping in and out as center hub is being rotated, then clutch hub bearing is toasted.
Clutch out of basket, get rear tire up off ground to spin center hub in basket with rear tire, against stationary outer shell that primary chain and engine are holding in place, and make sure that outer front face of clutch basket is not dancing in and out with center hub being spinning. 1/16" to 1/8" of outer hub face dancing in and out of full inner hub rotation, kind of normal, but when your taking 1/2' or more of the outer basket front face dipping in and out as center hub is being rotated, then clutch hub bearing is toasted.
If it's got the wobble, it's typically not the bearing. To check the bearing you need to pull the clutch with the frictions removed and spin the outer while holding the inner.. If it makes grinding sound, replace.
If its not the bearing gone south (even before the point of making noise), then its either bearing no longer seated tram in outer basket socket, or problem with the inner hub not running true as it turning on trans input shaft, with start of teeth spines broken off.
Simply inner clutch hub mats up to input shaft on trans, inner bearing races mates up to inner nub shaft, outer bearing race mates up to outer shell channel, so if problem on inner hub side via broken spines or bend input shaft, then inner hub will not be running concentric in the first place/can check that with dial indicator just spinning the inner hub alone via rear wheel.
If outer shell front face is dancing in and out with it being held stationary via primary belt, as inner hub is spinning concentric on trans input shaft, then problem with either bearing no longer running true between is races in rotation of the bearing, or bearing out race no longer seated tram in outer hub socket isntead.
Bearing is cheap enough to replace if to much lateral slop between races with aftermarket bearing on the cheap, and if problem is bearing no longer seated tram in outer basket channel socket to cause the problem instead, not a hard to fix that problem via lathe and shim, since clip 18 is going to hold the bearing in place in the end;
isntead of having to replace the entire outer shell that is $440 before tax.
If its not the bearing gone south (even before the point of making noise), then its either bearing no longer seated tram in outer basket socket, or problem with the inner hub not running true as it turning on trans input shaft, with start of teeth spines broken off.
snip
Simply inner clutch hub mats up to input shaft on trans, inner bearing races mates up to inner nub shaft, outer bearing race mates up to outer shell channel, so if problem on inner hub side via broken spines or bend input shaft, then inner hub will not be running concentric in the first place/can check that with dial indicator just spinning the inner hub alone via rear wheel.
If outer shell front face is dancing in and out with it being held stationary via primary belt, as inner hub is spinning concentric on trans input shaft, then problem with either bearing no longer running true between is races in rotation of the bearing, or bearing out race no longer seated tram in outer hub socket isntead.
Bearing is cheap enough to replace if to much lateral slop between races with aftermarket bearing on the cheap, and if problem is bearing no longer seated tram in outer basket channel socket to cause the problem instead, not a hard to fix that problem via lathe and shim, since clip 18 is going to hold the bearing in place in the end;
isntead of having to replace the entire outer shell that is $440 before tax.
One thing to note is that the spline issue is really more common on the later TC motors with 6speed trannies. The issue stems from loose spline fit and different primary drive sprocket positions.
Blue
If the bearing is not long seating true, then either it is loose in the inner hub or was pressed in wrong to start.
Another thing to note is that inner hubs can wobble some.. The broaching practice is not perfect.
Not sure what you are saying in the last paragraph.. "dancing in and out with it being held stationary"
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