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Have a 93 Ulra, I have put in EV-27 cam, Jim's lifters,adj. push rods,single fire, Sampson true duels with rolling thunder exhaust,K&N filter,new rings and base gaskets,new exhaust and intake gaskets and had the CV carb set up. At that timethe Indythought the carb was kinda between 2 different high speed needles, so he went with the smaller of the 2 and said ride it. The bike has 5K miles since work. it runs great plugs look perfect. Now for the small problem/question. When I accelerate if I shift before 3k you really do not notice anything, but if you wind it out a little longer and shift between 3200-3500 I get a slight top end valve rattle?, and the bike feels like it is being held back (as though pulling a trailer say),grade or brand of fuel does not make any difference. . But, if I pull out the enrichener (to the point just as the idle rpm's would start to come up) the bike accelerates with less strain/easier ( as thought it is no longer being held back. So is it asking for a size bigger needle or do I need to adj. the pump rate of the carb as suggested bya riding buddy? He thinks it is not feeding enough fuel in as it comes up in rpm.(mid range)Hate to take to the indy for something I could do myself, but I have very little knowledge of CV carbs.
Find out what jetting is and look at going a size or two up. Jetting charts for Oem bike set ups are for just that. Better cam/ exhaust/ ect = better breathing more fuel needed to support demand.Some timming issues will act simlar.Some techs know quite alot but not every set up is the same. Also in some applications a intake leak creating a lean codition.There are many different things to look for. Hope some of this helps
Bigger needles give you less fuel. Try going two steps richer with your main jet. If problem gets worse than go two steps leaner from original. That should get you going. Before you do any jet changes check your float level, needle and seat(may be some debris that is slowing down fuel flow)and fuel filter if you have one.
Your problem may also be in the way your carb was "set up" many shops drill out the slide hole too large and it opens up quicker than it should causeing a drop in vacum resulting in poor performance.
The rattle could be in the cylinders due to ignition, not valves. I have had it recently with my bike! Probably caused by the spark-plugs getting very hot and pre-igniting the mixture.
The other guys have given tips which are all good stuff, but I suggest starting be ensuring the inlet manifold is sealing properly at the heads and working your way out, checking all the other things as you go.
My problems proved quite complicated and I am changing my carb for a Mikuni, but it is not essential to go that far.
I have a similar setup to you, with the ev-27, single fire, but with v&h longshots in a 91 flhs. I found the stock petcock to be a restriction and changed it for a pingle. As far as the CV goes, i would make sure you have a 45 pilot jet and between a 185 and 195 main jet. If you dont have a dynojet kit get one or even better a thunderslide kit. This has worked great for me. The motor is now up to 96" and still the same carb setup. People have said it is one of the fastest dressers they have ever seen. Dont know about that but it keeps a smile on my face.
I used the site JB posted. Niterider's tech tip worked great. I did it like they stated. Best recommend for ya would be pop it off and see what needle is in your carb and if there are any washers under the needle. I run the 88 sportster xl needle with a 45 175 setup on mine. My motor is stock setup except for air cleaner and longshots. I'll be upgrading to a VT3020 in the next couple of weeks after i finish up my inner primary leak. Then she'll be ready to go. Kent
Thanks for posts, turned out easier than jettng. Just had to flip the dip switches in the Dyna ing, and advance the curve a step at a time til I found one the bike liked.Accelerates great and that held back feel is gone, when it is upper 60's or better even on a cold start it's about perfect and gets stronger as eng temp comes up. If the temp is in the 40's there is a slight ping under hard acceleration but goes away as it warms up, but I normally don't run it hard while the oil pressure is pegged, as I said once it gets warm and the pressure starts to drop to normal it really turns on. I could still advance it two more settings but it would likely be too far. May play with jetting this spring, but the bike's happy, I'm happy and Momma's happy. She likes when we hammer down when traffic,etc. allows. I tell her she just likes the Harley vibration, but she just turns red, tells me I'm a pervert (gee ya think) and turns away.
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