A baffling question?
I'm rebuilding after a wreck. The pipes I had are discontinued and all searches have failed so I now have a pair of drag pipes. I want to use glass wrapped baffles(10"?) so I don't scare my cows when I start up.
I have geared up using a 24T main drive sprocket and want as much torque as I can get. The pipes will allow me to throw bags on for trips. It's kick only so I didn't have a lot of choices for pipes.
My main question is how much this will affect tuning. I have an S&S E carb and have been running straights ever since I blew out a baffle ~10 yrs ago. With 80 HP at the tire it moves pretty good for an 80"er but I don't mind loosing some of the top end. Just wonder if I need to rejet for the baffled pipes.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
[IMG]local://upfiles/36103/E5DCDC1A9AB14117A63E44D4D45B2C4C.jpg[/IMG]
I have geared up using a 24T main drive sprocket and want as much torque as I can get. The pipes will allow me to throw bags on for trips. It's kick only so I didn't have a lot of choices for pipes.
My main question is how much this will affect tuning. I have an S&S E carb and have been running straights ever since I blew out a baffle ~10 yrs ago. With 80 HP at the tire it moves pretty good for an 80"er but I don't mind loosing some of the top end. Just wonder if I need to rejet for the baffled pipes.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
[IMG]local://upfiles/36103/E5DCDC1A9AB14117A63E44D4D45B2C4C.jpg[/IMG]
Yes, changing pipes in any way calls for rejetting or checking to see if you are now running lean or rich.
80HP at the rear? Not stock right?
As far as losing top end, just drop a gear while running and get it back.
80HP at the rear? Not stock right?
As far as losing top end, just drop a gear while running and get it back.
Pretty mild actually-S&S cases, HD cyl/heads,S&S E, Crane 356B cam and open 2 1/4 Samson pipes. Best run on 1/8 mi, 86 mph @8.45 sec. Not a real hotrod, but a blast to ride, especially 50 mph rollon. Helps that bike only weighs 530 lbs
I built several sets of baffles for my pipes (cycleshack) 2" I was looking for that no baffle bark when shifting but didnt want that obnoctious loud, I'm sure I didn't spell that right. I ended up with 9" long 64-1/2 holes then wrapped tight with glass. got every thing that I wanted with them. My buddies can tell it is me from a 1/4 mile away they say it has it's own sound
pretty simple to build also if you have patience and can weld. If your interested let me know Iwill give you the specifics on what I did.
pretty simple to build also if you have patience and can weld. If your interested let me know Iwill give you the specifics on what I did.
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ORIGINAL: DeJavuMy main question is how much this will affect tuning. I have an S&S E carb and have been running straights ever since I blew out a baffle ~10 yrs ago. With 80 HP at the tire it moves pretty good for an 80"er but I don't mind loosing some of the top end. Just wonder if I need to rejet for the baffled pipes.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
You should be fine on your pilot jetting, and be able to adjust that via the a/f mixture screw.
You alsomay want to run it a bit as is, and take a look at the plugs, as the Main jet is probably going to be too big now, and you may have to drop it by 5 or 10. (IE: 190, dropping it to 185 or a 180. CV numbers, but the math is the same with the S&S jets.)
It all depends on your bike (intake, aircleaner, timing, etc.). With the baffles, you should seemore bottom end and midrange. Your top end won;t feel that much different, IMHO.
Let us know how it works out.
ORIGINAL: DeJavu
-snip-I want to use glass wrapped baffles(10"?) so I don't scare my cows when I start up.
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-snip-I want to use glass wrapped baffles(10"?) so I don't scare my cows when I start up.
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