What do I need to replace the gaskets on my lifter guide blocks? I have seen an alignment tool, is this required? Also any recommendations on the 12 point bolts would be welcome, Such as what to use to tighten them.

 

No special tools needed. Alignment screws are more trouble than they are worth (I have some) Start the screws and twist the blocks left and right until the holes are centered in relation to the screws. Some people have a problem with those screws working loose and new screws come with loctite on them, so use low strength (blue) for piece of mind.

There is only one thing to use on the screws - 12 point, 1/4 inch socket, plus whatever extension/driver arrangement works for you. And they don't have to be that tight, just good and snug with loctitie.

Also, excellent time to replace lifters. New from HD they are only 135.00 for the set - don't waste money on high-dollar aftermarket units, they are no better. (speaking from experience)

 

If you are going to use the Harley "B" lifters, try Zanotti Motors. Somewhere around $22.00 each.

 

I agree with t150vej about the lifters, I also learned from expieriance. But I do like using the alignment screw, to each there own.

 

Thanks for the replys. I already installed new lifters and all new gaskets before the riding season started, but the blocks started leaking. I guess I will have to invest in a 12pt socket.

I used a wrench to tighten the bolts when I first installed the gaskets, after checking about 8 different local stores for 12pt socket.

Thanks again for the ideas.

 

I replaced those gaskets once because they were leaking. I torqued everything per the book. Rode out to the Texas Hill Country. Got near an exit and started getting a loud knock. Pulled in the clutch, coasted to the offramp, made it to a motel, called it a day. One of the lifter blocks came loose. All the bolts undid themselves. I took my wife's 883 to K-Mart or Wally World and no one (of course) had a 1/4" 12 pt socket (which I am still not completely convinced even exists), so I bought a combination wrench set that had a 1/4" 12 pt box end in it. Tightened everything up and didn't have another problem for 30K miles.

 

Use a twele point 3/8 drive with a wobble extension. Some sockets fit fine others may need a little grinding.

 

I use a 1/4" drive set from SK tools with a 12 point socket also available at sears. you need the alignment block first to make sure the lifters are not "skidding" on the cam and second to make sure the gasket oil hole is lined up with the one in the case and the lifter blocks. If this oil hole is partially blocked you can restrict the oiling to the lifters and the topend. You need locktite for sure on the bolts but all the threads need to be free of oil or the locktite won't hold. If you just centre it on the bolt the gasket could still be off.

 

Yes, the new screws, if bought from a dealer, will have loctite pre-installed. I find it strange though that the 12pt head bolts work loose and the allen (socket) heads generally don't? Least I never heard or had them happen to me. Loctite is definitely a must on the 12pt though - seen a lot of them work loose.

I have been considering 12pt bolts for the valve covers, just for ease of removal.

 

A repair manual.