Three questions
Okay, four.
In regards to my '89 Softail:
1) How do you bleed brakes, specifically the back. Thought I knew but didn't have luck - I still have to pump it to get it to hold.
2)How to I drain the trans fluid? Where's the drain plug?
In regards to my '93 FXR:
3) Since I've had it for 5-6 years I get little spots of oil/gas on my rear fender that I assume is coming out of my pipe whenever I run it at speed on the hwy. Last weekend, on a long ride a buddy behind me said he saw a puff of white smoke come out when I would open it up under load, and seemed to think he saw "stuff" coming out of the pipe(s). After the ride my fender had a lot of this oil or gas on it and my buddy's bike had some of the same stuff on his fairing from following me. The bike has about 50k miles, I've done about 10k miles, and engine upgrades where done prior to my owning it. The bike is rich - I'll foul plugs if I leave on the choke longer than 1/2 block in morning (so I don't and haven't had to change plugs in years). Despite all this, the bike runs great and I have a strong policy of leaving well enough alone, but after this most recent trip I would like to stop "spraying" anyone riding behind me. Oh, I don't seem to be eating oil - I never have to add any between changes.
4) I asked the dealership if there was some king of oil additive that might "seal" or "unstick" rings to possibly help the issue I described above, and he recommended a leak down test. Can someone explain that test and if it is something I can do myself with the right tools (or if it's just something to have the dealer do and is it expensive). Thanks
In regards to my '89 Softail:
1) How do you bleed brakes, specifically the back. Thought I knew but didn't have luck - I still have to pump it to get it to hold.
2)How to I drain the trans fluid? Where's the drain plug?
In regards to my '93 FXR:
3) Since I've had it for 5-6 years I get little spots of oil/gas on my rear fender that I assume is coming out of my pipe whenever I run it at speed on the hwy. Last weekend, on a long ride a buddy behind me said he saw a puff of white smoke come out when I would open it up under load, and seemed to think he saw "stuff" coming out of the pipe(s). After the ride my fender had a lot of this oil or gas on it and my buddy's bike had some of the same stuff on his fairing from following me. The bike has about 50k miles, I've done about 10k miles, and engine upgrades where done prior to my owning it. The bike is rich - I'll foul plugs if I leave on the choke longer than 1/2 block in morning (so I don't and haven't had to change plugs in years). Despite all this, the bike runs great and I have a strong policy of leaving well enough alone, but after this most recent trip I would like to stop "spraying" anyone riding behind me. Oh, I don't seem to be eating oil - I never have to add any between changes.
4) I asked the dealership if there was some king of oil additive that might "seal" or "unstick" rings to possibly help the issue I described above, and he recommended a leak down test. Can someone explain that test and if it is something I can do myself with the right tools (or if it's just something to have the dealer do and is it expensive). Thanks
The trans drain plug on the softail is located at 6 oclock under the right side cover where the clutch cable goes in It's usually a recessed allen or torx head (pipe thread) Typical HD dumb design (hide it behind the exhaust) You for sure have air in the brake line Keep pumping the brake hold down the pedal open the bleeder OR take a big syringe fill with dot 5 take off the fill cap on the master cyl open the bleed valve and inject the fluid untill no air bubbles appear in the master cyl Shut the bleeder Try the brake This might take several tries As far as the FXR sounds like the carb jets (hi speed) needs to be addressed White smoke is usually a gas problem Did this problem with the FXR just happen ?
1) It`s simple. Loosen bleed screw, , remove master cylninder cover. Fluid fill go through bleed screw. fill master cylinder with new fluid, wait few seconds - new fluid will start to leak at bleed screew. Tighten bleed screw. Test the brake. Should be OK. If it`s still not working - get somebody to help you. One preson pusch brake pedal few times and then hold it. You loose bleed screew - some fluid and aor will come out. Repeat few times. That always worked for me.
2) Never had a softail but probably the drain plug is somewhere under the tranny. Just look for huge screw in center of transsmision bottom.
3) check your primary cover for leaks (on my bike oil coming from primary was everywhere ) , maybe breather gear/valve (this thing in lower part of engine close to cam), carburator, oil lines, maybe oil filter is loose. If the bike is running good, it`s not burning oil and it splits some fluids from pipes - there is somethig strange. don`t know how to help you.
4) The best thing to "unstick" rings is a good oil. Now something controversial
- change your oil to full synthetic.
2) Never had a softail but probably the drain plug is somewhere under the tranny. Just look for huge screw in center of transsmision bottom.
3) check your primary cover for leaks (on my bike oil coming from primary was everywhere ) , maybe breather gear/valve (this thing in lower part of engine close to cam), carburator, oil lines, maybe oil filter is loose. If the bike is running good, it`s not burning oil and it splits some fluids from pipes - there is somethig strange. don`t know how to help you.
4) The best thing to "unstick" rings is a good oil. Now something controversial
- change your oil to full synthetic.
Your bike is probably running WAY too rich. So many guys do the thunder-something or the dyno-something mods to their carbs, and end up slobberingly rich. The fact that your plugs foul in half a block(!) is strong evidence that your carb is in that condition.
Great guys, thanks. For the brakes, are you saying pump with master cover on or off? I tried with the cover off and nothing seemed to happen. I tried with cover on and lots came out but no bubbles - maybe just didn't reach them yet? Also, When I pump brake and release valve, do I tighten back up valve before I pump again (as in pump, release, retighten, pump, release, retighten, pump, release, retighten, etc? or can I pump, release, pump, pump, pump?) I feel so stupid going on like this but it's been so long but last time was on my '65 Falcon when I was 19yrs old. Thanks.
Get yourself a 3' piece of clear tubing that will fit over the bleeder. Put your finger over the end when you release the brake lever, use a can to catch the fluid. This will keep your bike clean and you will be able to distinguish the when the dirty fuild is flushed out as well as any air bubbles.
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Agree with the carb problem. Put your hand in your pocket and get it set up on a dyno! There are more modified Harleys out there running poorly than properly....
On the rear brake, one of the problems is that the caliper is higher than the master cylinder, so air can get trapped in the pipe between them. When I had similar problems with an early Harley I unfastened the caliper, left the pipe connected, put it on the ground and then bled it, when it was the lowest part of the system.
You need a piece of wood or metal the same thickness as the disc between the pads when pumping the pedal. Having put the caliper on the ground you may get away with repeatedly pressing the pedal lightly, when the trapped air should return to the master cylinder. If air does come back, just keep doing it until no more comes. Also leave it like this overnight when any other air will find its way uphill to the master cylinder.
An alternative way is to use a pressure bleed kit. I live in the UK and use one intended for cars - I don't know if they are available in the US? They can be very messy to use, but use a separate bottle of brake fluid with a pump or pressurised tyre to force fluid through the system. I have an old reservoir cap with an adapter fitted in it to use with mine.
Failing that I had my Glide serviced at my local Harley dealer a few months ago, something I usually do myself, and the brakes came back stronger than I have ever got them! So you do get something extra when paying a trained mechanic!
On the rear brake, one of the problems is that the caliper is higher than the master cylinder, so air can get trapped in the pipe between them. When I had similar problems with an early Harley I unfastened the caliper, left the pipe connected, put it on the ground and then bled it, when it was the lowest part of the system.
You need a piece of wood or metal the same thickness as the disc between the pads when pumping the pedal. Having put the caliper on the ground you may get away with repeatedly pressing the pedal lightly, when the trapped air should return to the master cylinder. If air does come back, just keep doing it until no more comes. Also leave it like this overnight when any other air will find its way uphill to the master cylinder.
An alternative way is to use a pressure bleed kit. I live in the UK and use one intended for cars - I don't know if they are available in the US? They can be very messy to use, but use a separate bottle of brake fluid with a pump or pressurised tyre to force fluid through the system. I have an old reservoir cap with an adapter fitted in it to use with mine.
Failing that I had my Glide serviced at my local Harley dealer a few months ago, something I usually do myself, and the brakes came back stronger than I have ever got them! So you do get something extra when paying a trained mechanic!
Tried it again and I wonder if something else is wrong: it shouldn't be that difficult. Bar removing the caliper, nothing worked! I even took some long tubing and attached it to the caliper bleed valve and sucked the other end, getting fresh fluid to come out, but still can't get any hold when I apply the back brake. Any other suggestions? BTW - How high should I fill that master cylandr with fluid? Thanks.
Tried it again and I wonder if something else is wrong: it shouldn't be that difficult. Bar removing the caliper, nothing worked! I even took some long tubing and attached it to the caliper bleed valve and sucked the other end, getting fresh fluid to come out, but still can't get any hold when I apply the back brake. Any other suggestions? BTW - How high should I fill that master cylandr with fluid? Thanks.






