Unless you have a specific failure like a battery or solenoid, you're suffering from The Click. I think we all get it. I spent a lot of time tracking that down, and my conclusion is that the cause is multifactorial. There's a dozen + electrical connections between the battery and the starter solenoid coil. They all add a little resistance until there isn't enough current to pull the solenoid all the way in. There is no good solution. That new cap with the manual button for the solenoid is probably the best fix.

 

Assuming that the battery is in "serviceable condition" and all your connections are correct, I would say because of the rain that you have a water-in-the-handlebar-control problem with your "run/stop" switch or water has gotten into the starter and/or ignition relays themselves causing the miss. I would take apart the control housing and check that switch before looking at other problems: If memory serves, it's a three-pin switch in back. Hook up the multimter on the center pin and check at the other two pins with the other probe (OHM readings) while switching back and forth from run & stop (it's an "on-off" switch and expect "OFL" (open) and "continuity" of about .1-.3 OHM readings for normal readings). The starter switch is another three-pin with the battery voltage being at center pin; check for resistance at this location with key off/starter button depressed; should read "open" or "closed". That being unsuccessful, the following are some tests to perform on the starter, solenoid, switch, and relays systems. The battery must be "known to be good" (load test would be great!) with full charge and all connections sound otherwise it will throw bad readings and you'll replace stuff that doesn't need it. Make sure to read the warnings and other info as some tests need a realy out or in and voltage to the component or no voltage to the component:

STARTER SYSTEM TESTS

*All tests performed with ignition disabled and run/stop switch to “run”: pull ignition relay from fuse box.
**Tests #1 through 4 performed with starter relay installed: readings taken at relay pin locations using thin blade adapter (probe you can get in with relay installed securely). Terminal numbers are molded on the top of the relay. On any "key on/depress starter switch", the bike should crank (or click, in non-operating condition) without starting.

1. 86 Terminal (checking starter switch operation): red multimeter lead to battery +, black to relay pin #86 key on/depress start switch should read 1VDC, 2.0VDC for FLT max.

2. 50 Terminal (checking starter relay power to solenoid): red multimeter lead to battery +, black to starter “50” terminal (green wire) key on/depress start switch should read 1VDC max.

3. Motor Terminal (checking starter solenoid): red multimeter lead to battery +, black to starter terminal “C” (short silver wire with rubber cover) key on/depress starter switch should read 1VDC max.

4. Starter Motor Ground: red multimeter lead to starter mount bolt (little chrome screw), black to battery – key on/depress start switch should read zero volts

*The following tests are performed with starter relay OUT and readings taken at fuse box relay locations as indicated.

5. Power to Relay @ Terminal 86: red multimeter lead to fuse box pin location #86, black to battery – key on/depress starter switch should read battery voltage

6. Power to Relay @ Terminal 30: red multimeter lead to fuse box pin location #30, black lead to battery – key on/depress starter switch should read battery voltage.

7. Starter Relay Ground in OHMS: red multimeter lead to pin # 85, black to battery –
key OFF/depress start switch should read 300K OHMS with TSSM or “continuity” for all others

*Starter relay back in fuse box.

8. Power to Terminal 50 (Green Wire): read multimeter lead to terminal 50 (green wire), black to battery - key on/depress starter switch should read battery voltage.


Any readings that do not match the "should reads..." then the point you're testing "from" to the point you are testing "to" should be checked further for shorts or opens (i.e. "86 Terminal (checking starter switch)", you'd check from terminal 86 connection, wiring, and all the way to the handlebar switch. Good luck!

 

Oops: relay numbers on bottom! My bad.

 

How in the world does the switch come a part. I got it out of the handle bars but it looks like one piece. The two switches and a metal back plate holdig them together. I don't wanna break it if it isn't suppose to come a part.

 

If you have already bought the replacement switch, it should have come as a set (starter & run/stop switches mounted on a metal bracket with approximately 2 1/2" of wire leads coming from it). The old switches and bracket are cut off at the existing wires to remove and you will have to carefully cut back some of the plastic covering on the installed wire bundle of the harness. You will need to solder the new switch assembly into place on the harness, using heat shrink tubing to cover the exposed wires, and at the correct length so it will all fit back into the housing without too much left over or pinching so measure the wires appropriately before cutting to final length. Do not cut and resolder the connections together at the same point: stagger them so they will fit easily in the housing with the wires side-by-side with the heat shrink installed. Put an old blanket over the tank and anything solder can drop onto. I can't do a whole step-by-step "how to" solder but I've put the main points to watch for; just make sure to think and double check before cutting or soldering. Good luck with it!

 

I just don't see the pins from your testing write up.
I did ohm the soldered wires on the switch though. They seem ok.

I also tried to jump across the solenoid with a screwdriver. No dice. Just a little spark. Gonna just test the solenoid by the book. Thinking it's bad.

 

If you jumpered the solenoid with the screwdriver and just got a spark and not at least a big click and some kind of whirr, the solenoid is bad or the ground strap is bad or the battery cable is bad.

 

Sorry that was a cut & paste sheet I used at school, made for me. Don't feel bad though: I still have to look up what the numbers mean (why I made my sheet) LOL. It was written for a "known good battery and cable" condition also (see "M" terminal test below). The "pins" or "terminals" listed are either on the starter relay or the fuse box location for the relay. Terminal numbers are engraved on the starter relay but unlabelled on the fuse box locations (transfer the locations from the starter relay to the fuse box with marker). With the "relay installed" tests you have to pull out just enough to get a thin bladed probe of the DVOM in while still maintaining relay connection to the fuse box. With the "relay out" tests" connect the DVOM at the appropriate fuse box terminal location with relay out. Starter/solenoid locations are: To test your battery circuit to the starter: "M" on solenoid (battery terminal in svc manual) goes to the battery cable red via the main circuit breaker crank the engine with ignition relay out to prevent start-up, voltage drop on multimeter should be 1VDC or less. If more, it's battery cables or connection, circuit breaker or connections, or the battery is bad. Have battery load tested at auto store; a bad battery will give false readings for all other tests. The "50" location (relay terminal in svc manual) is on the solenoid and is a "green wire" with white teflon female connector and is read by inserting a flat bladed DVOM probe in the back of the female connector, the "C" connection (motor terminal in svc manual) is a little short strap that goes from the solenoid to the starter motor just poke the DVOM probe through the rubber insulation, if there. A little spark at the motor? I would suspect your battery since that jump method should really SPARK since it's 100% battery voltage to ground doing that! PS: DVOM= means multimeter in above too many letters!

 

The battery is less than two months old and stays plugged into a trickle charger. I checked and cleaned the battery cables yesterday.

I tested the solenoid per the book and it failed. Seems that the top (long) pole isn't connected good inside. I removed the solenoid,took it a part, and I can see that that's the pole that is suppose to turn the internal plunger. I did get one heavy click while removing the solenoid. I didn't have the ground removed form the battery. I couldn't get the solenoid to kick over again though. Went ahead and ordered a new one.

Since the solenoid failed the ohm test with all the wires removed, it has to be the problem. This is the external solenoid that sits on top of the primary cover. I see they changed that design after 88.

Thanks guys.

 

Just an FYI: I had batteries right from the shelf at HD that were bad back in '97. Had a hell of a time getting them to take it back after two weeks of the same tests you had to go through. Forgot about the year difference; I bounce around on the forum a lot! so your starter set-up is different. Glad you found the problem! PIA ain't it but it'll feel good when it kicks over. Did you figure out the "misfire" part? Run switch or just wet? Do you have electronic module or points (water in the points)? Noticed title when logging out last post.