evo build up
Tourer
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 375
Likes: 4
From: St. Peters, Missouri
nothing wrong with that....I've done quite a bit myself.
Takes a decent wrench for cam, etc...
If you don't already, get a factory service manual.
You should have one for your bike, anyway....
Ever looked this over?
Pretty good info on this site.....
http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/
Takes a decent wrench for cam, etc...
If you don't already, get a factory service manual.
You should have one for your bike, anyway....
Ever looked this over?
Pretty good info on this site.....
http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/
Last edited by 98 FLHX; Apr 30, 2009 at 08:11 PM.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 2,137
Likes: 17
From:
The cam change gets you the biggest bang for the buck. Getting rid of the stock EPA timing is a huge improvement. But if it was me, I'd get rid of the drag pipes and get a decent exhaust for all-around riding. The stock headers with slip-ons or the Cycle Shack one piece pipes are the least expensive and both perform very well. Drags only work well at WOT and make it difficult to get the bike to run right at any other speed. The torque cones really just screw up the performance at WOT without helping much at lower rpm.
Thread Starter
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Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
well i dont really like the look of slip ons. the only other exhaust that i think looks decent is the vance and hines short shots staggered. ive heard good and bad things on the torque cones. my buddy added them yo his custom 107 with drags and it made a world of difference. i rode it before and after and i liked it so thats why i wanted to go with the torque cones. plus i really likr the look of the pipes i have now. i tuned the s&s my self after the drags were put on and the bike runs really good in my opinion at all speeds. i had screaming eagle slip ons before and hated them
Last edited by monstermidas; May 1, 2009 at 09:49 PM.
Tourer
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 359
Likes: 21
From: Midland Tx.
You might try adding some back pressure with some homemade baffles. It is a simple washer welded to an eye bolt. Drill a hole and bolt them in. You can turn them different angles to play with the pressure.
You can also buy a baffle that looks like a wire spring that tapers to a point, it is flexible and can be shoved into your pipe. It has no means of adjustment but I think the sound would be the same.
I started with the torque cones only and when I ran the washer baffles I noticed low end improvement.
Cam, heads ,and hotter spark can only take you so far with the 80". I think the real power makers are stroked and/or have higher displacement jugs & pistons.
My evo is 80" and is slightly slower or equal to the twin cam I had. I'm not winning any races but I don't ride it for that anyway.
You can also buy a baffle that looks like a wire spring that tapers to a point, it is flexible and can be shoved into your pipe. It has no means of adjustment but I think the sound would be the same.
I started with the torque cones only and when I ran the washer baffles I noticed low end improvement.
Cam, heads ,and hotter spark can only take you so far with the 80". I think the real power makers are stroked and/or have higher displacement jugs & pistons.
My evo is 80" and is slightly slower or equal to the twin cam I had. I'm not winning any races but I don't ride it for that anyway.
Last edited by graultytc88; May 1, 2009 at 10:49 PM.
Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,354
Likes: 1
From: S.W. Florida
My FXR is a good example of what you might be looking to do. Quite a bit of research went into the build. All the work was done by myself and an HD saavy bro. We installed an 85" big bore kit from Revolution Performance. My SE heads were shipped to Larry's motorcycle and Machine for porting and flowing. Larry knows how to make these supposedly "crappy" SE heads come alive. They liked between .580 and.590 lift on the flow bench to flow the most air.
We needed to deck the heads.010 to bring the chamber volume back down to 72cc's to work with the 10.5 to 1 CP pistons suplied by Revolution with the kit. Larry also swapped out the stock SE springs for V-Thunder B-Hives and installed Viton valve seals. The cam selected was a V-Thunder EVL 5015 along with a Dyna 2000 ignition on single fire.
After break in the bike was dynoed and she made 98.6hp and 95.3tq after jetting and advance curve adjustments. There is more to be had by maybe changing the cam to a 5010 with a bit less duration and an exhaust system change. To give you an idea the total costs was approximately $2500.00 for all of the parts and the machine work. The case had to be clearanced for the cam, that was done by a friend who is skilled with an industrial type Dremel and Diamond bit. Took about a half hour to do, but in retrospect for $1000.00 more I could have purchased a new 113 and sold or kept my original engine.
We needed to deck the heads.010 to bring the chamber volume back down to 72cc's to work with the 10.5 to 1 CP pistons suplied by Revolution with the kit. Larry also swapped out the stock SE springs for V-Thunder B-Hives and installed Viton valve seals. The cam selected was a V-Thunder EVL 5015 along with a Dyna 2000 ignition on single fire.
After break in the bike was dynoed and she made 98.6hp and 95.3tq after jetting and advance curve adjustments. There is more to be had by maybe changing the cam to a 5010 with a bit less duration and an exhaust system change. To give you an idea the total costs was approximately $2500.00 for all of the parts and the machine work. The case had to be clearanced for the cam, that was done by a friend who is skilled with an industrial type Dremel and Diamond bit. Took about a half hour to do, but in retrospect for $1000.00 more I could have purchased a new 113 and sold or kept my original engine.
