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Can anyone explain how to properly check the end play?
wjl24 - On or off the bike???
In a previous post I stated they didn't have genuine wheel bearing at the dealer any longer and that it was actually Amoco Super Blue. That was a slip of my memory - it's Kendall Super Blu. Getting hard to find in any amount less than 120LB drums... but they still make it
And I just called around - they DO still offer it
HD part# 99855-89
Yeah, I don't get to go town very often.... I also found out that Kendall is now part of ConocoPhillips so maybe we can find it at a fuel stop somewhere...
Can anyone explain how to properly check the end play?
What he said...
off the bike after bearing replacement (if necessary)
Also, how to test if there is too much play with wheels still on the bike.
symptoms, visuals etc
Heat swells the alloy wheels a good bit and if they are too tight, they'll get extra hot from the lack of clearance and cook out the grease. If too looses, ill-handling will result.
Unless you have a lot of (recent) experience, it's near impossible to "feel" such small clearances so... you need to put a magnetic base and dial indicator onto the brake rotor with the indicator resting on the axle and wiggle the wheel without turning it and read the play. .002 - .004 for the front, .004 - .006 for the rear.
Good rule of thumb - if it's been running, say the life of the tire, they are likely OK, clearance-wise. But don't let the front go without service that long as a front can easily go 30,000 miles+ on a 16 incher. The rear you can jack up and you should be able to "feel" a tiny bit of play but not enough to flex the lip of the seal against the spacer. If you can feel that much in the front, I'd investigate it...
It's when you replace bearings it gets critical to follow precedure. Can't find that old post so reckon I'll spell it out again.....
With the new races installed, insert the spacer and shims including the special shoulder washer into the bore. Using a long enough 3/4" bolt and nut, or a piece of all-thread and 2 nuts, use the axle spacers on each end and tighten the arrangement against the clean and dry bearing to 60 ft/lb. With the magnetic base on the brake disc and the indicator against the "axle," push and pull and read the end play. Again, you have to be care to not rotate the make-shift axle (bolt or all thread) because the end is likely not flat and will foul the reading. Or you can place one end of the bolt (or whatever) in a vise vertically and move the wheel up and down to check also.
Anybody have a copy of service bulletin M-1013? I can't find it on the internet and the "harley hog.uk" website doesn't list it anymore due to a threat from harley.
Can anyone explain how to properly check the end play?
we clean & inspect all parts,with wheel off,assemble all bearings(dry with no seals),center spacers and have made spacers so just the threads are left on axle,torque to spec.take a magnetic base indicator,put on rotor and indicator on end of axle,the indicator will show exactly the end play,we use 4130 chrome moly for center spacers and machine to proper fit,much better than useing the shim spacers that distort over time(make sure you pack bearings when all done)
kirby
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