air suspension

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Jul 3, 2009 | 11:58 AM

92flhtc

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Stage IV

Joined: Jul 2009

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air suspension

I have a 1992 FLHTC and want to replace factory bars with monkeys but I have the front air suspension in the bars. Can the valve be moved to the fairing without a problem.Thanks..

Jul 3, 2009 | 12:17 PM

the_ogre25

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Yes you can. I have a valve fitting in the hose and have it tucked up in fairing behind the spot lamp switch.

Jul 3, 2009 | 12:48 PM

t150vej

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From: NC USA

You can move it, but obviously you will lose the reservoir. On some year/model bikes, the reservoir was the handlebars with 1/2 less volume.

Before you try it, why not test ride it with the front brake lever pulled just enough to engage the brake light (and the anti-valve will be closed then-you can usually hear it click) on a very bumpy section of straight road. That would give you a good idea of how it would act since the anti-dive blocks flow to the reservoir when it's activated.

Jul 3, 2009 | 04:30 PM

the_ogre25

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When I put my fairing on I noticed what I think was my anti dive valve unhooked. Would this affect handling? I have the stock bars on mine, could I put a tee in to access the valve and regain my reservoir (grips don't have holes in the ends)?

Jul 3, 2009 | 04:51 PM

t150vej

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From: NC USA

Quote:

Originally Posted by the_ogre25

Well, the A/D valve has an electrical connection. I assume that's what you meant? That valve simply blocks the air in the forks from building pressure back into the reservoir. This makes the suspension stiffer - quicker when braking, sorta like progressive springs do. When just riding the pressure can equalize between the 2 and gives for a softer ride. If you're used to it you're probably OK with it, but if you reconnected, you'd feel a lot of difference when braking...

92flhtc, I was thinking crash bar when I wrote that last response. Nonetheless, if you "move" the air valve and eliminate the reservoir (of the handlebars) you should unplug your anti-dive valve as there would be no use for that feature. I'm guessing it'd work OK, as the rear shocks don't have a reservoir, but then, they don't actually require air either. And I would still be tempted to relocate the valve temporarily before changing the bars and see how you liked the ride and handleing properties. And try a LOT LESS air pressure, maybe 6 - 8lb.

But if you are dead-set on the new bars, you could always shell-out the bucks for a crash bar for an 84 - 87 and plumb your air to that.

Jul 3, 2009 | 05:08 PM

Dr.Hess

Seasoned HDF Member

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From: NW AR

Or just drill and tap the existing crash bar for an air hose fitting and a Shrader valve.

Jul 4, 2009 | 08:42 AM

grbrown

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From: Bedford UK

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dr.Hess

Or just drill and tap the existing crash bar for an air hose fitting and a Shrader valve.

That may be possible, but they may not be air tight. Check first to see if there are any small holes in them, which are a manufacturing aid. Because the bars are a welded assembly, they may have small holes drilled in them to allow air expansion while being welded.

The earlier crash bars were made to be air tight, so will do fine.