Clutch hub
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Cruiser
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 204
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Clutch hub
I have a 1988 FLHS, during a tear down for a rear belt replacement I noticed that my clutch hub has a small crack started in the key way slot. My question is what is out there for reinforced or stronger clutch hub.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 8,199
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From: NW AR
I've seen mention of an aftermarket one that is beefed up. Where did I see that? In one of the parts supplier catalogs, I think. I recently did a clutch job on the 883, so I went through a lot of catalogs looking at stuff. Check the major vendors. I think someone like Barnett makes it and specifically mentions the "reinforced" area for our bikes. You might also check the dealer, as HD might have superceded it to a better hub.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 8,199
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From: NW AR
Here's one:
http://www.jpcycles.com/Search/Produ...results=10&No=
Says "Updated OEM construction..."
http://www.jpcycles.com/Search/Produ...results=10&No=
Says "Updated OEM construction..."
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Cruiser
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 204
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I saw the one in j and p and the custom chrome one. I have the updated oem hub now. I will check with my dealer today and see what he says, they have an older guy that I always talk to that is real good with evo's and shovels.
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Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 70
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From: Denver, NC
just replaced mine, some come with a metal oring (has to be a better name) thats pressed on after the hub and shell are put together, it keeps pressure on the back of the hub shaft, pulling it together, supposed to help keep the keyway from cracking. Not sure it works, but I put it on mine.
HDF Community Team
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 5,404
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From: NC USA
just replaced mine, some come with a metal oring (has to be a better name) thats pressed on after the hub and shell are put together, it keeps pressure on the back of the hub shaft, pulling it together, supposed to help keep the keyway from cracking. Not sure it works, but I put it on mine.
(since George found my stash somewhere he shouldn't have been looking and I'm now without meds again
)Looked up the number and it makes mention of a "washer" (???) Only thing I can imagine would be a heavy sleeve pressed onto the hub after assembly of the bearing/basket.
I've had mine off maybe a dozen times for one reason or another and have never had a problem after 100,000 miles. Another post some months ago was from a guy who was on his 4th or 5th in under 200,000 and he seemed to be pretty well "up" on his stuff. I think overtightening would contribute to them breaking since they're on a tapered shaft. Once seated, it takes very little to hold them on and of course, if not correctly torqued and they do get loose, it's all over then...
I think the OEM part is still avaliable thru HD: #37550-84A but for the price, I'd be tempted to try the Custom Chrome 17425 Anyway, good luck with your deal Ogre.
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Cruiser
Joined: May 2007
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I ordered the one through custom chrome. This bike has had a lot of problems with the clutch in the past. This is at least the 3rd clutch hub on this bike. The last it was off was at the dealership to get the transmission shifter pawl replaced. When I talked to the tech at the dealer he said that he sees a lot of them split. He also said that he leans toward over tightening them. I borrowed a mac torque wrench that reads accurate in reverse so this doesn't happen again.
I am also going to blue the shaft and loosely install the hub so I can see if I have a high or low spot. If I find that is the case I will probably use some loctite retaining compound on the shaft.
I am also going to blue the shaft and loosely install the hub so I can see if I have a high or low spot. If I find that is the case I will probably use some loctite retaining compound on the shaft.
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Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 70
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From: Denver, NC
T150VEJ is right, its a retaining ring, about a quarter inch thick, some hubs come with it, some dont. I only replaced mine because the keyway was wallowed some, heard all the horror stories, just didnt want to have to pull it apart again. Im a believer in the loctite compound, 680 is really good. Im not sure about putting it on the shaft, its hard to pull them off as it is. If you ever did, you may have to apply heat, messing up seals in the tranny you might not want to mess up. Im not a tech, but thats one problem you may have later, if we all live that long that is. Is your key in tight? Is the key hole in the shaft wallowed any? If you have a dial caliper, check around the shaft in several places and see if its out of round
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Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 70
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From: Denver, NC
and, the bike had 122,000 miles on it when I started replacing everything. Dont know if it had ever been replaced, but everything, hub, shell, clutches, compensator, chain, rotor, charging system, plunger, is new. I must say, if nothing else, Im relearning some patience. I started this last October by putting in the 99 EVO engine, actually got to ride some, just over 600 miles, but the mainshaft seals were leaking, sooooo, back in I went, ha, makes 3 times, put in new primary seal and bearing, thought thats where the leak was, wronggggg. Thats fixed now. Put my front pulley on yesterday, adjusted my belt some, have to sit on it an see how it feels,but its up off the floor so thats next week. Just dont re use the bearing that comes off the old hub, guess u know that.