I did a search but couldn't find what I was looking for...

I'm thinking of changing over to the SE Heads this winter with the pistons to bump the compression up. Anyone have any seat time with the SE heads? Just trying to get some feedback, I looked on Night Riders page and he post decent numbers but I wanted to know what the but dyno says.

And yes I know there are a lot of other options out there but for what it's worth I'm just trying to keep her all Harley, I have no idea why it just seems the thing to do. I'm not trying to build a monster so I don't need best of each component just trying to get a little more out of the old girl.

 

we can get more air thru your stock castings than SE heads,what comp ratio are you looking for?upping the compresion,you should be thinking cam too,something with more duration
kirby
www.veetwinperformance.com

 

I looked into them last year. Sounded good, Zannotti's has a good price on them too.. The problem I ran into was that the ports and valves seem to be significantly larger than stock. Not a good thing for low end Tq. What I ended up doing was taking my stock heads to a machine shop here and letting them do their "street port" and install slightly larger valves. I'm happy with the performance.. He compared the flow rate to a set of new Edelbrock heads.. The only thing you'll get from the SE that I didnt was a bump in compression. Not a biggie, the machine shop can do that too... Either way, it was cheaper..

Now, I was going to bump the comp while I was there. But, being at 9.5:1 with my pistons, the indi here recomended just leaving it as is as my bike is more of a rider than a racer.. His reasoning made perfect sense to me too. Basicly, his thoughts were that for the little bump you'll get from te 10.5:1, you'll run into more of a headache keeping it from spark knocking due to the poor fuel qualiy we tend to have... In the end, it all depends on how much power you want to make.. Nowadays, with this ethanol being frced down our throats, I'm good with the 9.5:1.. Bike runs great..

 

I'm at 85" with 10.5 to 1 compression, ported SE heads, VT 5015 cam, Super E, Dyna 2000 ignition, S&S rocker boxes, roller rockers, I think you get the picture. A little rough around town with the 5015, but flat gets it when on the throttle or Interstate. Setup and dynoed at 98.6HP/95.3 TQ in my light 93 FXLR and the SE heads really improve the looks. Contemplating changing the cam to a 5010 with a bit less duration.

 

I rebuilt my motor last winter. I put on SE heads, Andrews adjustable push rods, Andrews EV27 cam, S&S Carb. Replaced the jugs and pistons and also installed a set of Fulsac True Dual headers, Rush slip ons and I am very please with the performance.
I run 2-up most of the time and I use the bike as a commuter, and also long trips (8000 miles this season)
I ride a 1986 FLHTC, now have 58500 miles on her and she will cruise all day long at 80mph no struggle. Crack the throttle and she will jump!
I also installed a RevTech 6 speed converversion - now she has legs.
I did have to installed compression releases since the old prestolite starter would not turn it over, I was told by the shop that did the work that I am now running 10:1 compression.
My dyno figures are:
60.3 HP
77.7 Torque
Power range is 2800 - 3600 rpm's
Couldn't be happier with the bike.
I know that if I changed my pipes I could get a few more ponies out, but I like the look and the sound and it gets my 250 lbs around with no effort.

 

OZ,
With what's been done, seems like your numbers are a little low. Are you sure about them?

 

I am running SE heads on my 98 Road King FI. First I went with the SE FI air cleaner kit, supertrapp 2-1 exhaust & power comander and it dyno'd at 63.3 HP & 79.0 ftlb torque. Then I installed the woods w6 cam & the bike woke up. Then did a ring job & SE heads and the motor is exactly what I was looking for. Starts up easy, good idle, pulls smooth & strong and the gas mileage got better. It was at 43 MPG stock and now I am at 45 MPG. My experience has been good and this combo works well on the road and up in the mountains & in the twisty stuff. I have not been back to the dyno yet but plan to next time I have $250 burning a hole in my pocket.

 

Buddy WMC - I am sure about the results, the motor was Dynoed with 500 miles on the new set up.
I guess now that she has been "broken in" a new pull is in order. I am in no way dissapointed with how she runs or pulls, even fully loaded, so it may have been a bad dyno run. It was done at a dealer, so I don't know how many pulls they did.
It was free....... perhaps that is the clue
I do know that it will jump if I run it through the gears, the stock clutch is really on thin ice right now, has been slipping.

 

OZ,
Just curious as we did nine pulls making jet and ignition curve changes along the way. Fortunately my Dyno operator is also my best friend and riding partner. Still had to pay for the shop time though about $300.00 including the parts for the S&S carb. The numbers just seem awfully low for the good pieces you have added.

Did they do anything to the carb, ignition, or just send you down the road with a baseline?

 

No tweaking, just baseline. I do plan to change my stock ignition this winter - it is 23 years old now, so I will find an indy to dial her in this time.
Still, the difference is night and day from the stock set up.