idle issues
Tourer
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 285
Likes: 2
From:
jeepwrench,
i had a similar issue with my 90 eglide. i changed everything intake seals, intake to carb seal, disassembled carb and cleaned everything, i even swapped carbs still wouldnt idle what i found was that the plug in the VOE went missing. i accidently put my finger over the end of the voe and I could feel a vacuum. I took some silicone and filled where the plug went . the plug covers the adjustment screw for the voe. that probably isnt your problem but it might be worth a look see.
later............
i had a similar issue with my 90 eglide. i changed everything intake seals, intake to carb seal, disassembled carb and cleaned everything, i even swapped carbs still wouldnt idle what i found was that the plug in the VOE went missing. i accidently put my finger over the end of the voe and I could feel a vacuum. I took some silicone and filled where the plug went . the plug covers the adjustment screw for the voe. that probably isnt your problem but it might be worth a look see.
later............
Thread Starter
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Novice
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
no accelerator pump adjustment. the float level appears to be good, i'm not sure how this could effect the idel?. fuel filter flows enough fuel to allow the bike to run wide open for a couple miles. i'm going to look for another air/vacume leak. the only thing i havent taken apart is the vacume thing that sits above the carb. there is one vacume line and 2 wires running to it. i've pinched off the vacume line with no change in anything. i'll keep trying.
thanks for all the help so far!!
thanks for all the help so far!!
Thread Starter
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Novice
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
what does VOES and VOE stand for?
there is no cap or plug on the bottom of the mixture screw (very bottom of the carb, flat headed screw) when i first took it apart this screw was bottomed out tight.
this carb appeared to never have been off before. i say this because the fuel line clamps were the compression type that are cut off only and the fuel line looks original.
i'll be checking the port at the top of the carb and the adjusting screw at the bottom next.
thanks again!!
there is no cap or plug on the bottom of the mixture screw (very bottom of the carb, flat headed screw) when i first took it apart this screw was bottomed out tight.
this carb appeared to never have been off before. i say this because the fuel line clamps were the compression type that are cut off only and the fuel line looks original.
i'll be checking the port at the top of the carb and the adjusting screw at the bottom next.
thanks again!!
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,468
Likes: 12
From: Bluffton, South Carolina
Don't forget to check the diaphragm on the slide for holes. Also when you took the carb apart, did you remove the main jet holder??? If you did there is a silver needle seat/guide that has to be installed in the right direction. If you look at it carefully you will see one end is square inside and out. The other end is square on the outside and radiused on the inside. This is the end that needs to be up in the venturi and the needle goes in it. If this is put in the wrong way it will give you fits. Hope this helps.
HDF Community Team
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 5,375
Likes: 2,570
From: NC USA
Brad - All good advice above ...
First, the carb has been off before because there is an aluminum plug covering the idle mixture screw from the factory that can only be removed by drilling it out. The crimp-on, factory type clamps aren't rare, I use them all the time.
Second, you mentioned the idle mixture screw was all the way in(?) when you got the bike. If it was overtightened it could have damaged the seat and or tiny tip of the adjusting needle.
The holes where the idle fuel comes thru are behind the butterfly on the manifold side and they are very tiny. It takes nearly nothing to plug them and it's almost impossible to get a wire into them. I'd recommend you take it off again, disassemble and soak the body in denatured alcohol. You can get it about any hardware or paint store. It's the only thing that effectively cuts varnish. Carb cleaner these days is mostly junk, thanks to EPA regs. Then use high pressure to blow thru everything. You need to remove the idle mixture screw when you do this. Under the idle mixture (screw) spring is a tiny flat washer and o-ring which can be hard to get out without damage.
While you have it off, remove the enricher cable by unscrewing the plastic nut from the body of the carb - it'll all come out as an assembly. Remove the brass valve from the end of the cable and make sure it slides smoothly in and out of the bore all the way and that the pin on the end isn't bent. First CV I ever had displayed the exact symptoms as yours and that valve was burred and wouldn't seat....
And if I may ask, how does it start now? With the enricher full-out, does it start OK and idle fast for a short bit then get way rich.... and then part way in idles fast? Then all the way in it dies, right?
First, the carb has been off before because there is an aluminum plug covering the idle mixture screw from the factory that can only be removed by drilling it out. The crimp-on, factory type clamps aren't rare, I use them all the time.
Second, you mentioned the idle mixture screw was all the way in(?) when you got the bike. If it was overtightened it could have damaged the seat and or tiny tip of the adjusting needle.
The holes where the idle fuel comes thru are behind the butterfly on the manifold side and they are very tiny. It takes nearly nothing to plug them and it's almost impossible to get a wire into them. I'd recommend you take it off again, disassemble and soak the body in denatured alcohol. You can get it about any hardware or paint store. It's the only thing that effectively cuts varnish. Carb cleaner these days is mostly junk, thanks to EPA regs. Then use high pressure to blow thru everything. You need to remove the idle mixture screw when you do this. Under the idle mixture (screw) spring is a tiny flat washer and o-ring which can be hard to get out without damage.
While you have it off, remove the enricher cable by unscrewing the plastic nut from the body of the carb - it'll all come out as an assembly. Remove the brass valve from the end of the cable and make sure it slides smoothly in and out of the bore all the way and that the pin on the end isn't bent. First CV I ever had displayed the exact symptoms as yours and that valve was burred and wouldn't seat....
And if I may ask, how does it start now? With the enricher full-out, does it start OK and idle fast for a short bit then get way rich.... and then part way in idles fast? Then all the way in it dies, right?
Tourer
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 285
Likes: 2
From:
jeepwrench,
VOES + vacuum operated electrical switch works the timing advance on our bikes.
i put red silicone sealer over the end of mine to stop the vacuum leak. it isnt pretty but it works. i will paint it when i have time..
http://s119.photobucket.com/albums/o123/paco011/VOES/
later.............
VOES + vacuum operated electrical switch works the timing advance on our bikes.
i put red silicone sealer over the end of mine to stop the vacuum leak. it isnt pretty but it works. i will paint it when i have time..
http://s119.photobucket.com/albums/o123/paco011/VOES/
later.............
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Thread Starter
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Novice
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
voes port has good vacume
voes pod holds vacume, no leaks
rubber line is in good shape
timing reacts when vacume is applied to the voes
i'm going to remove the carb and have it looked at. i know for sure its clean and not clogged. the only thing i havent replaced it the rubber diaphram inside. and the jets.
i have 120psi compression in both cylinders. do these valves ever tighten up? are these engines prone to burn valves? i'm pulling my hair out with this one.
voes pod holds vacume, no leaks
rubber line is in good shape
timing reacts when vacume is applied to the voes
i'm going to remove the carb and have it looked at. i know for sure its clean and not clogged. the only thing i havent replaced it the rubber diaphram inside. and the jets.
i have 120psi compression in both cylinders. do these valves ever tighten up? are these engines prone to burn valves? i'm pulling my hair out with this one.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 4,324
Likes: 3,571
From: Picayune, Ms.
Have you tried adjusting the idle mixture screw? If not do this:
Set the idle adjustment screw(the one on the side of the carb) to 1500 RPM. Engine warmed-up. Put a floor fan on the engine.
Screw the Idle mixture screw all the way in gently till it bottoms out. Engine should keep running.
Screw the Idle mixture screw out until the engine starts to gain RPM it may go as high as 2000 RPM(or more). Now turn the idle adjustment screw to bring the engine back down to 1000 RPM.
Now turn the idle mixture in until the engine starts to stumble, do this in 1/8 turns and wait 5 sec. or more between adjustments. When you reach this point stop.
Now turn the idle mixture out counting turns until the engine starts to stumble again. Divide that number by two and screw it in that amount. Engine should run smooth at this point. Reset idle RPM to 900 to 1000.
Do it all again.
I use a 1/4 drive screw driver head and mark one of the sides, and that way I'm able to count the flats.
Good Luck.
Set the idle adjustment screw(the one on the side of the carb) to 1500 RPM. Engine warmed-up. Put a floor fan on the engine.
Screw the Idle mixture screw all the way in gently till it bottoms out. Engine should keep running.
Screw the Idle mixture screw out until the engine starts to gain RPM it may go as high as 2000 RPM(or more). Now turn the idle adjustment screw to bring the engine back down to 1000 RPM.
Now turn the idle mixture in until the engine starts to stumble, do this in 1/8 turns and wait 5 sec. or more between adjustments. When you reach this point stop.
Now turn the idle mixture out counting turns until the engine starts to stumble again. Divide that number by two and screw it in that amount. Engine should run smooth at this point. Reset idle RPM to 900 to 1000.
Do it all again.
I use a 1/4 drive screw driver head and mark one of the sides, and that way I'm able to count the flats.
Good Luck.