Definitley have the throttle wide open for the compression tests, warm or cold.

Doesn't matter whether the engine is warm or cold, but it will make the compression readings vary. My thoughts were at 140 cold, that's pretty good and it should come up a good bit warmed. And by warmed, I mean having been ridden a number of miles, not just started and fast idled for a few minutes. If it was at 140 warmed, then definitely check it cold and compare the readings. But no matter - unless you were trying to get away with pulling the jugs and leaving the pistons in them (no new rings needed) 140 warm or cold leads one to believe the cylinders/pistons are in decent shape and would likely accept honing and rings with good results.

No way I'd pull an engine for a top end job. In fact, I always pull the top end before pulling an engine (makes it easy to pick up by hand)

 

RAIN............every day!
Recoopin' from shoulder surgery so I cant even wrench on the old iron bitch for a few more weeks!
But Im not in the snow, I could ride if I wasn't all stiched & screwed together.
Hatch.

 

Well I'll trade you for rain anytime. You can keep the screws.

 

Can't speak to harleys, but small block chevvies, valve job, ridge reamer, hone cylinders, check connecting rod and crank clearances with plastigauge, replace as necessary, and good to go. If you want something for the long haul and dependable, from what I've heard and read, close to stock is just fine. I'm sure others will disagree. jmo After all a motor is a motor.

 

An evo isn't a Chevy. There is more to it than that. A Pan or Shovel with that style barrel could be treated like a chevy. But an EVO with it's clamped barrel (Older bikes had base bolts and head bolts, not through studs.) needs to be clamped between torque plates and tightend to spec before measurement and machining inorder to load and distort the barrel to shape. Clearances are looser in the HD motor because it is aircooled and things grow and shrink at radically different rates. If you used watercooled clearances, you would cold sieze pistons as they grew much faster than the bores. Ring gap is very important in an aircooled motor as is correct gap spacing.
It isn't rocket science, hell it's from before rockets existed. It just requires some knowledge and not just 'rule of thumb' works on my watercooled iron V8 mentality. (All the info is in the FSM. One of the few places the book is thorough.)

 

I appreciate your response, wasn't aware of these differences. More of the same from the motors-on-wheels family, have to have special tools and knowledge to work on something. Always needed some specialty items, but its really gotten out of hand anymore. This applies to all motors, not just hd. Guess I'll have to go back to school. Life was so much simpler without technology, and we still had fun.

 

Just curious, took top end apart and would appear I have stock pistons , barrels didn't look too bad, anyone ever buy the EV Big Bore

 

I feel like such a dope, I thought I could ride this bike to eternity with a few garage rebuilds. Not happening apparently, I like pre emmision stuff, my truck is an 88 chevy, a guy can work on it. don't want to go back to a shovel but that's not the worst thing in the world, by any means. I don't take those long rides so much anymore anyhow.

 

I do my work myself. I just have the local builder do the jugs. I still do the rest myself. (I sold all my engine machine tools to a friend and can still use them when I need to. Headwork, bottom ends, cases or transmissions.)

 

The increase from 80" to 83" is a marketing ploy. The Evo is 1340cc is approx. 81.7" so you won't gain any appreciable "size" with that type conversion. You would only be going from a 1340 to a 1360. The 10:1 pistons would add some level of performance, but I don't think you can buy a better quality cylinder than OEM. They have a high nickel content in the liner which is one of the major ingredients of their longivety.

If it's the torque plate issue on your mind, yes, when oversizing you must use them, but assuming the bore is good, to simply scuff hone (break the glaze) to allow new rings to seat, they're unnecessary. I've used straight blade flex hones and ball-type flex hones on countless jugs with absoutely no problem whatsoever.