engine breakin
Thread Starter
|
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 3,039
Likes: 11
From: Northern Ontario
engine breakin
On my 89 flhtp I rebuilt the engine this winter from the bottom end up, valves, wisecoe flat tops etc so now if I can get some input for breakin. I do have the service manual but I'd like to hear from others if I can?
We have some nice doulble lane hiways that go for 30 miles or so in one direction so if I have to keep the mph down at a steady rate for a bit it's doable.
We have some nice doulble lane hiways that go for 30 miles or so in one direction so if I have to keep the mph down at a steady rate for a bit it's doable.
HDF Community Team
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 5,379
Likes: 2,574
From: NC USA
Well, there's no end of different opinions concerning break-in and I won't claim mine is better than anyone elses, but I'll give you the short version...
It's good to start it up and let it run fast idle (1200 - 1500) for about a minute and shut off to cool for about 20 minutes. Otherwise, if you're not going to ride it, don't start it! The first 25 miles or so are the most important. Go ride it keeping under 2500-2800 rpms and either be accelerating or on a hard decel. Steady speed/rpms is a no-no. As it warms, make the accel with more throttle but under 1/2 for sure. Keep that up for 25- 50 miles then park it and drop the oil immediately. Change that out and then go ride (whenever) avoiding steady speeds, lugging or sitting in traffic but wind it on up to about 3600 once in a while and again, avoid steady speed/throttle running all you can. After 125 - 250 you shouldn't notice much oil loss but you can expect up to 1/2 quart up to that point and don't worry about it. Change the oil again after about 500 miles and enjoy your new engine
It's good to start it up and let it run fast idle (1200 - 1500) for about a minute and shut off to cool for about 20 minutes. Otherwise, if you're not going to ride it, don't start it! The first 25 miles or so are the most important. Go ride it keeping under 2500-2800 rpms and either be accelerating or on a hard decel. Steady speed/rpms is a no-no. As it warms, make the accel with more throttle but under 1/2 for sure. Keep that up for 25- 50 miles then park it and drop the oil immediately. Change that out and then go ride (whenever) avoiding steady speeds, lugging or sitting in traffic but wind it on up to about 3600 once in a while and again, avoid steady speed/throttle running all you can. After 125 - 250 you shouldn't notice much oil loss but you can expect up to 1/2 quart up to that point and don't worry about it. Change the oil again after about 500 miles and enjoy your new engine
Last edited by t150vej; Mar 20, 2010 at 08:52 PM.
Road Warrior
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,595
Likes: 8
From: Vancouver Island British Colombia Canada
I learn more every time I come to the Evo section!! Can you explain the reason for not staying with a steady rpm? I have never heard this before but I will be doing my 88 some time late this summer.
Thanks!
Hatch.
Thanks!
Hatch.
Thread Starter
|
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 3,039
Likes: 11
From: Northern Ontario
I'm thinking it has to do with the rings seating and not hitting there peak in the cylinders.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 3,352
Likes: 4
From: Augusta, GA
The only thing I would add is during the initial startup you should run at a high idle until the engine warms up and shut it off, maybe seven to ten minutes. Then let the engine completely cool before starting it again and then ride it like you stole it.
Just remember evos and earlier make no oil pressure at low idle and idling these engines will kill them.
Just remember evos and earlier make no oil pressure at low idle and idling these engines will kill them.
Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,354
Likes: 1
From: S.W. Florida
Well, there's no end of different opinions concerning break-in and I won't claim mine is better than anyone elses, but I'll give you the short version...
It's good to start it up and let it run fast idle (1200 - 1500) for about a minute and shut off to cool for about 20 minutes. Otherwise, if you're not going to ride it, don't start it! The first 25 miles or so are the most important. Go ride it keeping under 2500-2800 rpms and either be accelerating or on a hard decel. Steady speed/rpms is a no-no. As it warms, make the accel with more throttle but under 1/2 for sure. Keep that up for 25- 50 miles then park it and drop the oil immediately. Change that out and then go ride (whenever) avoiding steady speeds, lugging or sitting in traffic but wind it on up to about 3600 once in a while and again, avoid steady speed/throttle running all you can. After 125 - 250 you shouldn't notice much oil loss but you can expect up to 1/2 quart up to that point and don't worry about it. Change the oil again after about 500 miles and enjoy your new engine
It's good to start it up and let it run fast idle (1200 - 1500) for about a minute and shut off to cool for about 20 minutes. Otherwise, if you're not going to ride it, don't start it! The first 25 miles or so are the most important. Go ride it keeping under 2500-2800 rpms and either be accelerating or on a hard decel. Steady speed/rpms is a no-no. As it warms, make the accel with more throttle but under 1/2 for sure. Keep that up for 25- 50 miles then park it and drop the oil immediately. Change that out and then go ride (whenever) avoiding steady speeds, lugging or sitting in traffic but wind it on up to about 3600 once in a while and again, avoid steady speed/throttle running all you can. After 125 - 250 you shouldn't notice much oil loss but you can expect up to 1/2 quart up to that point and don't worry about it. Change the oil again after about 500 miles and enjoy your new engine
Trending Topics
HDF Community Team
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 5,379
Likes: 2,574
From: NC USA
But again, it's not rocket science and main thing is to not lug or over-rev, get caught in traffic jams and overheat the thing. And some may disagree, but in my thoughts, "heat cycling" is as more for the benefit of gaskets rather than the rings, especially the head gasket. Hard parts (rings, cylinders) already went thru a super high heat process at manufacture and if you get them hot enough to change any of that, you've already cooked it down... but it will get the jugs hot really quick first time you fire one after hone/rings. That's why most agree to run them a very short period and shut them off to cool before riding and that gives the head gasket a chance to seal before putting full running compression to them.
HD Forum Stories
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
8 Best Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Worst Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
Killer Custom's Jail Break Is The Breakout That Refused to Blend In
Verdad Gallardo
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Verdad Gallardo
Harley-Davidson Reveals Super Cool Cafe Racer Concept
Verdad Gallardo
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Verdad Gallardo
10 Motorcycles You Should Never Buy
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Harley-Davidson Needs to Fix in 2026
Verdad Gallardo
Southpaw Super Glide: A Left-Hand-Drive 1979 Harley FXE Built to Fit the Rider
Verdad Gallardo
Thread Starter
|
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 3,039
Likes: 11
From: Northern Ontario
This is some very good information. I had been reading about a method where as you get yourself to an area such as a double lane and shift to 3rd gear and now hit the throttle 3/4 going from 30 mph upto 60 mph and let off the throttle and once it goes back down to 30 mph hit the throttle again to 60 mph and do this 10 times to seat the rings. Is this familar to anyone?
Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,952
Likes: 15
From: Senoia, Ga., by way of Miami, Fl..
This is some very good information. I had been reading about a method where as you get yourself to an area such as a double lane and shift to 3rd gear and now hit the throttle 3/4 going from 30 mph upto 60 mph and let off the throttle and once it goes back down to 30 mph hit the throttle again to 60 mph and do this 10 times to seat the rings. Is this familar to anyone?
I like Rufus' method better.. With the cylinder growth of an air cooled engine, temperature is very important and doing the 3/4 throttle, on and off, may cause gasket issues.. There is a theory that "driving it like you stole it" will help to seat the rings at a higher level though, because of "rod streach" at high RPM's.. But, being air cooled and not a race engine, I dont believe thats the best way for longevity... I'm still learning the Harley engine stuff, so the other guys may have better info, but thats my take on things.. I recently did mine at random RPM's for roughly 200mi and was very happy with the results, runs good and no smoke..
