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Go back and re-check what you have disassembled...Looks like you induced a new problem during the repair process...The best way to learn is from mistakes...Make sure you don't repeat the same mistake more than once!!!
+1
There are several different versions of the index/diaphram plate. Most have a recess and ***** (so to speak) on the backside that MUST be engaged correctly with the diaphram spring. From your original post, sounds like it may be the style adjuster plate with only one "notch" and it's sitting on top of the spring "finger" rather than in between 2 of them. That's the only way the pressure plate could possibly push crooked unless the spring was simply installed crooked against the pressure plate.
Yep, it's confusing to post photos, even if you do know how
Here's the backside of the original style adjuster plate. Note the boss at the 12 o'clock position of the photo. The originals had 3 of those that fit between the "fingers" of the diaphram spring. I did have an aftermarket once that only had 1 of those, and OEM may have used the same at some point. The new replacements don't have the different depth holes, but use washers to set the pressure.... but anyway, if yours only has one, and/or if by chance you got yours crooked where it doesn't set into the spring properly, that could be your problem...
This is what my spring looks like. Got the bike all back together with fluids in it. Started it up and let it run for a little bit. While it was on the jack stand, I pulled in the clutch and put it in 1st gear. The rear tire was spinning even though I still had the clutch in.
Last edited by Tomcatt78; Jun 24, 2010 at 02:23 PM.
This is what my spring looks like. Got the bike all back together with fluids in it. Started it up and let it run for a little bit. While it was on the jack stand, I pulled in the clutch and put it in 1st gear. The rear tire was spinning even though I still had the clutch in.
OK. It's perfectly normal for the wheel to turn with the clutch pulled in and wheel up. In fact, they'll turn a little bit with the trans in neutral with the wheel off the ground. But the spring being released ****-eyed is not acceptable and there's really no way for it to do that of all is assembled correctly... actually it'd be hard to mess it up, you know?
But assuming you're confident all that is correct, just go back to square one with the adjustment. Back off the cable adjustment (make the housing shorter) then break loose the 11/16 locknut on the allen screw center of the adjuster plate. Turn the allen in until it touches, then back it out 1/2 turn and lock it down. Then adjusting the cable housing, take out all but 1/8" free play at the lever. It will be like a little drag feeling until you ride it a few miles.
I've had mine out and took me 3-4 times to get the adjustment to feel right. Put in a new primary chain few weeks ago and never touched either adjustment. Felt off till I rode it up to temps and after it warmed up, it was just like I left before teardown - perfect. They all have their own personality seems like
I was wondering if the wheel turning with the clutch in was normal. It was doing that before the belt broke and I took everything apart. If I was going out for a ride, I'd let the bike run for a couple min. As soon as I put it in 1st gear, the bike would take off even though I had the clutch pulled in. It only seemed to do that at first when it wasn't fully warmed up. After riding for a couple minutes, it wouldn't do that. I could sit at a stop light, with the bike in 1st gear and the clutch pulled in and the bike would not move.
I was wondering if the wheel turning with the clutch in was normal. It was doing that before the belt broke and I took everything apart. If I was going out for a ride, I'd let the bike run for a couple min. As soon as I put it in 1st gear, the bike would take off even though I had the clutch pulled in. It only seemed to do that at first when it wasn't fully warmed up. After riding for a couple minutes, it wouldn't do that. I could sit at a stop light, with the bike in 1st gear and the clutch pulled in and the bike would not move.
Just another reason why Evos should always be warmed up thoroughly before blasting off! Everything has to come up to operating temp before things expand, fit together, and work right.
I had the bike out today for a quick ride and everything seemed fine. It shifted good through the gears so the clutch is working. It started pulling away the first time I put it in 1st gear with the clutch in but after that it did not move with the clutch pulled in and going into 1st. I guess I was looking too much into things. Either way, its working fine. Thanks for all the advice, it was a big help!
I have just attempted clutch adjustment for the first time. Some of my findings are similar to yours.
After I adjusted the clutch I checked it by pulling in the clutch lever and turning the rear wheel. It seemed locked in gear. Yet, once I started the bike it worked like normal. This confused the daylights out of me.
However, I need to adjust again. My clutch lever now does not pull back all the way. The clutch works, but I dont like the feel of resistance on the lever. I turned the adjuster out one full turn. Would clutch lever travel increase if I only turn it out half a turn, or the other way round? Guess I will have to experiment with it.
My clutch felt great before I adjusted it. I wish I hadnt messed with it. I did it because the book says I must adjust the clutch.
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