I have a 95 dyna lowrider that I put an aftermarket kickstarter on. Only problem is that with the stock ignition you really gotta kick er as it doesnt fire till the third compression (correct me if I'm wrong). My question is, does anyone know if there is there a cheaper alternative than spending $250 for a new ignition module? If it was a chrome ***** I wouldn't have a prob spending that much, but it's a bobber/ratbike. I'm considering converting it to a points type ignition. Opinions on both? Is the maintenance/time and effort worth it? Any help is appreciated.

 

ttt...

 

First off, I do not know why it would not kick start with the stock ign. the same as it would with the starter. Having said that, I did change my 84 Iron Head Sporty over to points and condenser when the ign. module quit working. You do have to change the coil also, but it is still much cheaper to do than the new module. You just have to install the breaker plate with the points and condenser. The breaker plate has the fly weights for advance on it. It is pretty easy to change over, and I thought my Sportster ran better on points than it did on the ign. module. And I ran it 20,000 miles without having to adjust or replace anything. That was about 15 years ago, and it only cost me about $35.00 back then, although I did get a used coil from a guy that was changing his out for a dual plug set up. I am sure others will chime in here.

One thing I forgot to mention is that you will also have to change plugs and gap them closer than they are set for the electronic ign.

 

I found a whole setup on ebay for $89, so if it works I'll go for it. It'll kick alright when its warm, but if its a cold start, forget about it. Thanks for the input.

 

I would have to switch out the sensor plate with the points plate/condenser/flyweights etc, and id have to switch the coil, wires and plugs, but would i leave the stock ignition module and VOES? Will leaving the module leave me with the same issue I started with?

 

You will be disconnecting the module. You shouldn't have to replace the plug wires. The VOES is connected to the module, so it will not be used. The fly weights will advance and retard the timing. With points it will not advance the timing as much as it did with the electronic ign., but I could not tell much difference in the way it ran at high rpm, and really thought it had better low end torque. I am sure there are other EVO owners who have done this, and I hope they chime in here, just to correct anything I have missed, or that is different on an EVO.

 

If I remember right, you will have to run a wire from the points to the coil where you disconnect the electronic module. Really, a points ign. system is pretty simple. Makes it real easy if you do have trouble, you can at least fix it. Not so with electronic, unless you carry a module around with you. I did carry an extra set of points and condenser with me, but I never needed it in 20,000 miles at least. Good luck

 

Seems simple enough. Only thing is that there's 2 seperate wires going to the coil. Would 2 come from the points? Thanks for all the help.

 

Ive decided that I'll convert to points. I would run a wire from the points to the coil, but what does the other terminal on the coil go to?

 

The kill switch on the handle bars if you still have one...or what ever you are using for an ignition switch.