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Well, you can measure the resistance of the stator and compare it to your specs Should be like 0.3 Ohm, off the top of my head. More importantly, carefully go over the whole thing looking for burnt or damaged insulation (enamel) on the wires. Check for resistance to the part that bolts to the case. Should be infinite. I suppose you could test the regulator by plugging it into the wall (110 V AC), but I wouldn't recommend it. Ideally, if you had a veractor, you could give it about 50V AC and see what you got out. Regulators are pretty easy to replace on the bike.
No, George, haven't been to see anyone. I'm just here on my mountain playing with my cars and bikes. Jim's in Oz, so I don't think we can meet up with him either.
Has anyone changed EFI to carb..I have 97 ultra classic done the swap last year all went well so far..this year regulator went out,damn there proud of those things,so decided to go to a 32amp set up..Checked the the amp draw on the bike could'nt get more than 22amp out of it,Think 32 amp set up should work...Did'nt change the rotor at first,now waiting on my third stator and a new rotor to match...Hope this will be the right fix...Was wondering about putting amp gauge in place of air temp gauge,just not real sure what wire to hook it between..is it thr main power wire that feeds the ignition switch or the power wire on the regulator???Do have a volt gauge,just wanted one more tool on the bike to keep things in check...Any help on this issue.......
I wouldn't go with an Amp gauge. Stick with a volt meter and pay attention to it. I think that the regulator, stator and rotor should be matched if your changing them.