Hi All,
Seasons Greetings and hope you all get some saddle time in over Christmas.
Now to my question.
I have a 1986FLST ('87 model) in nearly original condition, bags, screen passing lights etc. Bike has 55k miles on it and no other problems. Have had an oil leak from base of rear cylinder for a year or more now, which I know is common, and have been doing temp fixes, (sealer around base) .
Have decided to fix properly and got a top end set and a Hayden oil leak fix. Am also honeing bores, fitting new rings and grinding valves, in fact a top end job.
All went very smoothly until I went to remove rear rocker cover. Absolutely no clearence between cover and frame so had to "remove" some metel to get off, which is fine as it is only aluminium and will polish out. and will not be seen under tank anyway.
But, when I got to the rocker carrier, no way. Cannot wangle it out, left, right, back forward etc, etc, no go.
Do not want to start grinding unless totally necessary. What I want to know is, am I doing something wrong, is this normal or is it possible that frame is damaged?.
I feel frame is ok as top engine mount was fine and there does not appear to be any cracked paint on tubes that would suggest a kink.
By the way, front one was no problem at all.
Any sugestions or ideas appreciated.
Thanks,
Tony.

 

I don't know how much difference there is in the frames between your 87 and my 92 softail Fatboy. But I recently tore mine down like you, and it was a similar PITA for me to remove the rear cylinder rocker boxes. It was very tight, but I just kept at it and they came out. Kinda worried when it comes time to put back together. But I'll cross that bridge when it comes up. Maybe loosen the motor mount??

 

I have an 88 FLHTC that I am about to do the same thing to. The rear is the tight cylinder. I have studied it & thought if I pull the front mount that the engine should drop just enough to allow the box to clear.
I have seen a lot of evo top end jobs where the bike is sitting there with the top end off & the cases are still in the frame so I would suggest that you look for the best way to lower your engine just a little.
Great time to slide in an EV 27 cam!
Hatch.

 

Thought about dropping engine, but front mount is on top of a welded cross bar on the front down tubes, and don't much like getting into dropping rear and gearbox!!!!!
Also did same job on a Sporty a few years ago and do not remember having this problem.
Thought about EV27 but undecided if it is worth effort/money. They are very expensive here in Ireland and with the present economic situation here and a new budget just being passed, money tight. Unless someone there has a "free Sample" or a cheapie.

Tony

 

I have same bike. It's like a brainteaser puzzle. Everything has to be just so. Make sure the pushrods are loose. A little rotation, a little tilt and it'll get there. Putting it back on is booger, but once you figure it out it'll seem relatively easy.

Shouldn't have to grind anything.

 

Ironbutt nailed it. You have to have patience, remove the rocker arms take all the bolts out comepletely and have patience. Removeing the front mount will give you some additional clearance as well. When re-assembling use metal gaskets where available. I would also reccomend file-to-fit rings as most of the "drop in" rings have a huge end gap and don't hone too much or you might get some "piston rattle". Hope this helps

 

Well eventually got everything off and leaving parts into machine shop for honeing etc.
Two questions. Is there any easy way to clean gasket off base of barrel? Its like a layer of plastic and I don't want to mark the base. Or should I let my shop do it?
As I said I got a Hayden Oil leak fix, the one with the small jet between cylinder and crank case. I also got a James top end gasket kit, and as the James base gasket is much more substantual looking than the Hayden, can I use the James with the oil jets?

Thanks
Tony.

Edit:
I have to say, with 55000 miles on the engine there is no apparent wear on bores or carbon build up. It is a shame that this leak appears to be a common problem and all this work has to be done on what appears to be a great motor!!!!!

 

i wish i new enough to do the job myself. i think i need to take a class or something. cause i have no one to learn from. i get the local shop mobtown cycle to do the motor work. hos did you all learn

 

Permatex makes a spray-on gasket remover that works pretty well. A heat gun will sometimes loosen up a stuborn gasket too. If you decide to have the shop clean them, then tap out the cylinders for the Hayden pig-tails first. That way they will also clean up any chips left behind. The james base gasket should work nicely with the Hayden setup. Hope this helps.

 

Have them put the jugs on a lathe and remove the gasket. This will do two things. Remove the old sealer/gasket, and also make sure they are true/flat. I have been told that many EVO base gasket leaks were due to the bottom of the jugs not being totally flat.

I just had the same thing done on my 1997 Dyna jugs while it was apart.