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Problem Finding Neutral

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Old Sep 29, 2011 | 03:44 AM
  #21  
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When adjusting my clutch I do the adjuster in the centre of the clutch by the book, but take out almost all the slack in the cable. Doesn't achieve nirvana, but is the best way I have found.

One or two on here use Barnett kevlar clutch plates and reckon they give perfect performance! Must admit I am tempted to try them. Mrs B and I have taken in recent years to do an annual migration into Europe and doing long mileages, especially down minor roads with numerous gear-changes, can take it out of a chap's clutch hand and wrist!
 

Last edited by grbrown; Sep 29, 2011 at 04:12 AM.
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Old Oct 1, 2011 | 02:16 PM
  #22  
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Hi Graham,Interesting reading re.your (and others) Barnett Clutch thread talk.
Can the Barnett Kevlar plates be bought in the UK? Cheers,Bungo
 

Last edited by BungoBill; Oct 1, 2011 at 02:25 PM.
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Old Oct 3, 2011 | 06:47 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by BungoBill
Hi Graham,Interesting reading re.your (and others) Barnett Clutch thread talk.
Can the Barnett Kevlar plates be bought in the UK? Cheers,Bungo
Hi Bungo,

I haven't decided to go ahead with this yet, although problems with my starter in recent days may accelerate that! Yes, they can be bought here, but prices are high. It looks as if buying through US Ebay is a much cheaper way of getting them. JC Motors, who trade on Ebay as jc_motorcycle_accessories, have them at very good prices and include shipping costs for us in the UK, so they are export-friendly. When I move they will probably get my custom. Bear in mind UK customs will charge us import duties and VAT!
 
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Old Oct 4, 2011 | 06:44 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by NorthGeorgiaHawg
Two words... RED LINE! Best tranny fluid out there. I run it both bikes now. Looks like Pepto Bismol going in the hole.. but it sure works well!

I just blip the throttle on Bertha, and upshift into neutral while the engine is coming back down. Seems to work. I did have a hard time getting Bertha's clutch adjusted just right though... a 1/8 turn on the adjusting screw seems to make a huge difference.
I too had a problem finding neutral, but tried the above trick and it's gotten much easier. Currently at about 75% success rate - trying to understand the bike and expect to be at 90% in short order.
 
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Old Oct 4, 2011 | 07:56 PM
  #25  
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Not trying to be an idiot here, but you are adj clutch on a cold engine ? Adj on a awarm engine will drive u nuts
 
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Old Oct 4, 2011 | 08:08 PM
  #26  
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Oh yea......

So, after I reported all was well, it seems that the adjustment lasts for about 100 miles or so, then goes back to "no neutral while the engine is running" mode.

I adjusted it twice now, and it's fine in the garage and down the road a ways, then goes back to its old behavior. While running, it shifts like butter.

Hurmph.
 
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Old Oct 4, 2011 | 09:13 PM
  #27  
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I have fixed this problem on many bikes...If you have a bike that shifts fine, but will not go into neutral with the motor running...99% of the time time primary chain is too tight. Oil makes little to no difference...if adjusted correctly it will shift fine with no oil in the primary...many people run enclosed belt drives...no oil works great. The only purpose of the oil is to lubricate the chain, and the primary bearing if you haven't changed it to a sealed one.
 
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Old Oct 4, 2011 | 09:15 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Tom84FXST
I have fixed this problem on many bikes...If you have a bike that shifts fine, but will not go into neutral with the motor running...99% of the time time primary chain is too tight. Oil makes little to no difference...if adjusted correctly it will shift fine with no oil in the primary...many people run enclosed belt drives...no oil works great. The only purpose of the oil is to lubricate the chain, and the primary bearing if you haven't changed it to a sealed one.
Thanks Tom. I'll take a look.
 
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