EVO All Evo Model Discussion

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Old Mar 14, 2012 | 06:54 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Joboo1966
What you describe is actually not normal , while evo's are colder blooded than some, the fact that you have to full choke for a long time ten mins after running her says one of two things. Either something like aftermarket pipes have altered the mixture and you need a rejet, or all evo's have a common problem 97 and down....that problem is that after a certain point in time, the intake gaskets between the carbs crack and start sucking air. And it happened to me, so I'm for real. When I took it the dealer I explained te exact same thing you did now to us. Cost 100 bucks to replace plus 89 more to rejet. Take it the dealer. Have it checked.
I was at the dealer they wanted 2 put my ride on the dyno.....NO WAY.

I trust myself or an INDY!
 
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Old Mar 14, 2012 | 08:12 AM
  #12  
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Hotter plugs might help over winter dude?
 
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Old Mar 14, 2012 | 08:35 AM
  #13  
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Yeah, I spoke to the dealer about tuning it after the cam change - has to be dyno tuned, and price starts at $300 without any extra labor. I was a auto mechanic for 20+ years, and have had many MC, ATV, snowmobiles over the years. I am sure I can handle the tuning, just need to find some info on where to start with the jetting and/or settings.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2012 | 08:51 AM
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Ok a CV tuning. Try a search or here. The guy said cut 2 coils, I don't know about that?
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...am-change.html

I still run the original butterfly carb. After I tuned it been running great for 3+ years so far!
 
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Old Mar 14, 2012 | 10:58 AM
  #15  
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Thanks for the tips/links - I figured I will have to give the search feature a workout to gather some info
 
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Old Mar 14, 2012 | 01:18 PM
  #16  
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I just rejetted my 1995 FXDL with a kit from here http://www.cv-performance.com/
I used a 46 pilot and a 185 main plus the new mixture scew and slide spring. Bike runs great now!! Just FYI I'm mostly stock, screaming Eagle slip ons and new K&N filter in stock housing!
 
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Old Mar 14, 2012 | 02:00 PM
  #17  
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Mine was the same way until I gave the carb a good cleaning and turned the air/fuel screw out a bit, much better. I do have a Dale carb coming and I will let you know the differnce after I install it. By the way I also notice if I have been working on the carb and air cleaner is off it starts much better.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2012 | 08:11 PM
  #18  
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Mine was that way until I rejeted. I changed the 42 pilot jet for a 45, and the 175 main jet for a 180. Now I only use the enrichner to start, push it in after it starts and keep it running with the throttle lock until it warms up a little. It will take right off with no couphing or sputtering, but I like to warm it some to keep the gaskets from leaking. I can take the bowl off without removing the carb to change jets on mine. Only takes a few minutes, and jets are only about $3.50 ea. My plugs look good and I get right at 50 mpg, so I am happy. Before the jet change if I held the bike at 50 mph it would surge a little bit even after it was warmed up. Runs much better now.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 12:38 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by oppirs
I was at the dealer they wanted 2 put my ride on the dyno.....NO WAY.

I trust myself or an INDY!
I took mine in and told them the issue. I had a cracked gasket and need a rejet, the Harley dealer never once mentioned a dyno , I got charged for the jet kit, the gasket, and the labor. Your dealer sounds like a greedy bastard. I would suggest a different dealer. Lastly I'm sure back in the day everyone who worked on bikes could do the tuning by ear, the evo while not computer operated per say is still a bit more precise than older Harley's, while I'm sure most half seasoned mechanically inclined folks could rejet an evo, change a gasket and get close, a dyno in my opinion is the only real way to get the fuel air combustion mixtures as close to precise as one can. These bikes on paper run like ****. That said any technology available that can get things all that closer to the sweet spot as possible should not be shunned. I can only assume your objection to the dyno is the price. So respectfully if the best possible mixture and optimal performance tuning is not a concern then by all means do it yourself. Otherwise if money's a concern go to a different dealership. If it needs new jets and a gasket a good dealership will usually eat the cost and dyno it as part of doing the job right and double checking their work at no cost to you.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 06:48 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Tom84FXST
I choke my bike to start it the first time...the choke is fully off in 10 seconds. Never choke it after the first crank...may twist the throttle if it has been sitting for an hour. Your carb is too lean for your set-up, or you have a vacuum leak...get it fixed and you will be much happier.

I agree with Tom. Choke to start it the first time and it is off within 5-10 seconds. Then I use the throttle lock to slightly keep it running. After about a minute off I go even in cold weather. Not sputtering or nothing. Now I always take it very easy until the bike warms up. I will also say it is more cold natured than my last bike because you can feel it takes more time to warm up. BUT if I ran my choke for more than a minute my plugs will foul.
 
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