The speedometer cable went out on my TG. At least I'm thinking that's the culprit. I picked up a Barnett replacement, and it appears that there is a set screw where the cable screws into the front wheel hub? Does anyone know if it's a std slot or allen screw that sits in there? Thanks guys!

 

Tiny *** slot. The drive unit is cheap enough to replace the whole thing as I did it on my ride. The screw is not gonna want to come out easily. Just saying. I dropped the wheel and removed old drive and cable then put it back on. I swear it's calibrated just fine but noticed the wife's Camry is reading fast on the neighborhood school radar. I bet Toyota says that so they can claim increased MPG to the EPA on all models. Scam for sure!

 

On my 94 e glide the cable screws into the drive unit. Taking out that tiny little set screw will allow you to take out the worm gear.
When I did mine I unscrewed cable from speedo, fished it out of the fairing and twisted the caseing to unscrew it from drive unit. At that point I found out cable bike inside worm gear. Removed set screw, removed worm gear and removed broken cable piece. Inserted worm gear, reinstalled set screw. Then screwed in new cable to drive and reattached to speedo good as new.

 

What year bike? The cable just screws into the sender, as mentioned. Leave the little screw alone.

Make sure there are no sharp bends in the new cable. In fact, do everything you can to make the routing of the new cable with as large radius bends as you can. Doesn't hurt to grease the new cable.

I've had the best luck with Genuine HD cables and senders. Cables and senders are about the only recurring issue I've had.

 

It's a '91. If the drive unit is bad, does that require the wheel to be removed?

 

If the drive is shot, the axle has to come out. I have done it so many times, it takes me about 5 minutes. Get the weight off the front tire, however (jack, lift, milk crates, etc.) The perfect way is to have the weight off the front tire but the tire still just touching the ground, but even if you have the wheel in the air, that will work too. Remove the axle nut. Loosen the end cap nuts. Take a long 1/2" drive extension and push the axle out with it. This keeps everything in line. Swap out the new drive unit, push the extension out with the axle, tighten it all back up. I've done them at camp grounds, behind the dealer, in my garage, at the oil change booth at Sturgis, etc.

Point the new one so that the cable has the least bend possible. On your bike, the drive is on the opposite side as on mine. I think they have less problems that way. You may not have to push the axle out far at all and might be able to mostly get by without the 1/2" extension. Makes it easy for me

 

Agreed, but don't grease the last inches at the speedo head end, to avoid the risk of grease getting into the instrument. That can get messy!

 

Well, it's not the cable. Wonder if it's the gage itself.

 

I would replace the speedo drive first as it is easier to get to.

 

Front wheel off the ground. Spin the wheel Does the cable (speedo end) turn? If so, your speedo is shot (very rare). If not, then the drive gear is shot, assuming the cable is good.