I'd go with whatever base gasket, but observe two things:
- some kits (cometic I guess) use steel triple layer head gaskets as well - the torque values for them are huge, I personally don't like that, would go with whatever requires just the stock torque.
- in order for the base gaskets not to leak anymore, you have to change your studs for the latest design and install them properly (check where the top should be). Simply new ones from HD or S&S would do.

 

Did same job awhile back. Used James gasket set and no problems.
Also used the Hayden Oil Fix to cure for ever the base gasket leak.

http://www.haydensm6.com/tof_single.htm

Cheers.

 

Yes, I working on a 1991 FLSTC.

I've got her torn down now and finished scraping friggin gaskets a little after 10pm. Right now I'm leaning towards the steel gaskets. They don't have a brand name on them so I don't have a clue what they are but, they are steel with a small crush ridge in them and a hard thin rubber coating. They look like they would provide a nice seal.

The cometics, as you know, are just a thin sheet of copper with the proper holes made in it. Compared with the steel they don't really impress me much. The factory gaskets are not much more than a sheet of especial paper.. It's not that I mind having to do this again someday but, I'd like to put it off for as long as possible.

The bike has 26,000 miles on it. I have owned it since last spring and put 6,000 miles on it. The cylinders look great and don't need any honing. But.. after a good inspection of my drive belt I need to replace that to. The inside of the belt is fraying a little so, since I have the exhaust system off I'm gonna pull the primary drive and the swing arm and put a new belt on. The sprockets look fine, thankfully.

The bike has custom mag wheels and the rear pulley matches the wheels so, I need to count the teeth on the belt. Although I feel pretty sure that the pulley is the same size as stock.

 

Wow lots of great info here. I like the Hayden suggestion. The oil doesn't touch the gasket. I have a rear base gasket leak right now... I might be tearing it down myself this winter I'm just slightly intimidated by the loosening and tightening process on the heads. I had a friend warp his heads doing it improperly.

 

I've got her back together and things are running great. I used James base gasket. The new Harley head gasket that eliminates the o-rings, the Harley gasket that goes between the head and the rocker box and the rest of the rubber was a kit I bought on ebay. I think it's DPI or DBI or something like that. I rode for about a half hour and no leaks so, I'm good for a while. If I have to redo this every few years it's not a big deal. It's an easy job just a lot of labor.

 

S&S Base and Head Gaskets...The kit includes some good instructions on setting up the squish.

 

Funny story, since I finished mine I've had a couple of EVO owners begging me to do their bikes. I figure that I could do it for about 700.00 bucks including the parts. I wouldn't use cheap parts. So far my leak area is dry as a bone. The James gaskets have worked like a charm.

My next operation is to replace my rear pulley. I bought the bike with mag wheels on it and a matching rear pulley. It hasn't held up well at all. The front pulley is in great shape and the belt looks good. But, the teeth on the rear pulley are halfway gone and the edges are really rough. The darn thing makes a squeaking, rubbing sound all the time. So, the new pulley is supposed to be here tuesday so, I'll have it switched out by Wednesday..

 

James gaskets!!!!!!! put 400 miles so far and everything is great now that I changed the diaphragm on the carb. Anyone having problems with accelaration should look at the fuel pump on the right side of the carb at the bottom to see if their diaphragm is intake. I have had this starting problem for a while now and since I changed it I am great.