I'm month and a half ago I bought an 89 Heritage Classic and unbeknownst to me it has the old points system on it. I was recently informed that they need to be replaced And hey Harley mech said that I could replace them for less expensive with a sixty's Chevy point system but he couldn't tell me what year and model. Is the sixty's all the same or is there a specific 1 that I need to get?

 

There is some debate as to whether or not the automotive points are the same or not. It probably makes no difference. Try a 1967 6 cylinder Chevy truck, 6 cylinder. I think those are close enough, but there may be others that have more recent experience.

Your best bet would be to put it back to the factory electronic ignition system. In My Opinion. That will cost more than the two or three bucks for a set of points, though.

 

Why skimp on something like points, the difference in price and the chance they may not be a good fit doesn't seem worth it, its like using automotive oil filters.....cheapass behaviour that could cost way more in the long run.....just my 2 cents but I fix these things for a living.

 

Yeah, I suppose I should. just a pain dont have any money. Im in school. So I'm trying to be as big a cheapass as is reasonable.

 

Take the points to NAPA or someone like that and look through the catalogue, if they are the same, they will match the pic.

 

I had points on my old shovels. I used Chevy 6 cylinder points on my shovels. The body of the points were the same. The difference I found was in how the contacts were attached. The Harley contacts used a flat disc that was welded or glued to the arms. The Chevy contacts were attached using rivets. This produced a hole in the center of the contact. It did give a smaller contact area, but I didn't find any difference in the applied voltage to the coil. Just the amount of money to buy the contacts. Harley was usually 4 or 5 times the price of the Chevy points.

One thing. I never used the Chevy capacitor with the points. I always used the Harley capacitor.
This way I was sure of the load for the coil.


One thing I will pass on about using the points and flywheel weights. Make sure to keep the weights lubed and free.
Make sure the springs are good and not binding.
If they freeze up in the advanced position, it will be hard start and eat the starter Bendix.
If it freezes in the retarded position, it will start but have a bad idle and run ruff the higher the RPM.

 

As a FYI, back in my Shovelhead Daze, I had a DVM that had a capacitance function. I measured a factory HD capacitor (condenser) and various others, like the Chevy straight 6, 47 Plymouth, Ford, etc., and I found that all the values were the same. I don't recall what the value was, but they were the same. 35 uF? Something like that.

 

Why, what's wrong with them?

What is bike doing/not doing?

Don't have points in my '86 Softail, but am of the age that I well remember them in cars. Seldom had to change them, take them off, clean/file them, clean contacts in cap, re-fit and gap. It would have been more usual to change the rotor or cap (both can crack with heat and spark jumps). Also the condenser might have to be changed.

Also check the plug/high tension leads.

If cash tight it is worth a try.

 

Points Harleys often make a mess of the points because the condensers don't really do their job properly.....always carried a spare condenser on my Ironhead.

 

Okay I will see if it froze the wieghts. it wont start now at all and the points were arcing allover the inside of the case. Badly pitted and nasty. I will get some new ones since these are gone, past even ajusting and get a new condensor. The only other experience I have with points are from my old volkwagon. Gone now.