Evo shuts down after 20 miles
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,727
Likes: 3,073
From: Brighton, MI
I was thinking your coil was bad and after it would heat up (after about 20 miles like you mentioned before) it would short out internally. I have heard of coils doing this before.
Now that you have replaced things, it makes it a little more difficult to diagnose. I would try and swap out the coil, but am now wondering if something else is going on with the new parts.
Man I hope you get it figured it. Your original symptoms sounds like an electrical issue. Components warm up, and then short out or ground out. They cool off and all is good again till they warm up.
I got a good deal on a bike about 10 years ago with a similar problem. Turns out when things heated up, the heat would cause expansion and a little dribble of solder for the condenser wire was just close enough to a grounding point to ground out the spark. When it cooled down, it contracted and would not touch any more and spark returned.
Anyways, modern electrical components can and do have the same problems, its just on a microscopic level and internal to components like diodes, resistors, Ic's, etc. They just don't really give you a visual of when they fail.
You must be banging your head against a wall right now! Keep at it! You will figure it out. YD
Now that you have replaced things, it makes it a little more difficult to diagnose. I would try and swap out the coil, but am now wondering if something else is going on with the new parts.
Man I hope you get it figured it. Your original symptoms sounds like an electrical issue. Components warm up, and then short out or ground out. They cool off and all is good again till they warm up.
I got a good deal on a bike about 10 years ago with a similar problem. Turns out when things heated up, the heat would cause expansion and a little dribble of solder for the condenser wire was just close enough to a grounding point to ground out the spark. When it cooled down, it contracted and would not touch any more and spark returned.
Anyways, modern electrical components can and do have the same problems, its just on a microscopic level and internal to components like diodes, resistors, Ic's, etc. They just don't really give you a visual of when they fail.
You must be banging your head against a wall right now! Keep at it! You will figure it out. YD
Thread Starter
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Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
From: CALIFORNIA
http://www.power-barn.com/images/sin...%20diagram.jpg
running exactly as described but without voes and without tach.
running exactly as described but without voes and without tach.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 8,201
Likes: 3,089
From: NW AR
OK, you should have +12V on the white wire measured at the coil when the ignition is on. If you don't have that, you have a wiring problem in your ignition switch, handlebar kill switch or breakers, so fix that first. I don't trust the $1 (or "free with coupon") type of multi-meters, so if you're using one of those, break down and buy a $20 one instead.
Fully charge the battery. None of these systems like a weak/low battery, including the factory one (ask me how I know.) After fixing whatever is not getting you 12V to the white wire (just trace it backwards until you get 12V,) crank and check for spark. There's some type of LED indicator on the ignition to show it's working? It should blink or do whatever it is supposed to do at that point, or the new module is bad as well (assuming you have +12V on the white wire and the rest of the wires are connected properly.) You might also check the resistance between the center (white wire) and individual coils (pink and blue wires) of the coil. They should be the same. That is, center to pink = center to blue. Do that, of course, with the power off and preferably with the wires disconnected, or at least the white wire disconnected, and you'll probably need a low scale, like Ohms or 100 Ohms, or something, depending on your meter.
Fully charge the battery. None of these systems like a weak/low battery, including the factory one (ask me how I know.) After fixing whatever is not getting you 12V to the white wire (just trace it backwards until you get 12V,) crank and check for spark. There's some type of LED indicator on the ignition to show it's working? It should blink or do whatever it is supposed to do at that point, or the new module is bad as well (assuming you have +12V on the white wire and the rest of the wires are connected properly.) You might also check the resistance between the center (white wire) and individual coils (pink and blue wires) of the coil. They should be the same. That is, center to pink = center to blue. Do that, of course, with the power off and preferably with the wires disconnected, or at least the white wire disconnected, and you'll probably need a low scale, like Ohms or 100 Ohms, or something, depending on your meter.
Thread Starter
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Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
From: CALIFORNIA
thanks for your reply doc, so im using a fluke multimeter it works well, battery is fully charged 13.6v, coil resistance is good, the white 12v ignition wire from the bike has 12v when not connected to coil and ignition on but when tested while connected to coil it only shows 4.6v. should the coil positive have 12v when ignition on? my neighbor said the timing may be 180 off but I couldnt find a window for the timing mark can you point me in the right direction so i can make sure timing is tdc, is there a way to test the run switch? thank you for your expertice.
edit. i found the timing plug hole i guess i need to buy the view plug STAT.
edit. i found the timing plug hole i guess i need to buy the view plug STAT.
Last edited by BOCR6; Jul 11, 2013 at 03:21 AM.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,727
Likes: 3,073
From: Brighton, MI
It might be a little messy, but you don't need to use the viewing plug, or you can use a plastic tube of some sorts that fits snugly in the hole. Whatever you use, make sure it stays clear of the flywheel.
Can you borrow a coil from someone to sub in for yours for diagnostic purposes? YD
Can you borrow a coil from someone to sub in for yours for diagnostic purposes? YD
Thread Starter
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Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
From: CALIFORNIA
the resistance on the coil is good but i have a dual fire coil i can try but ill have to change the setting on the module to dual fire.
currently using a ultima single fire coil with the module settings on single fire.
currently using a ultima single fire coil with the module settings on single fire.
Last edited by BOCR6; Jul 11, 2013 at 06:15 AM.
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Joe Kucinski
Club Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 5,817
Likes: 7,850
From: SE Louisiana
To isolate whethter it's the bike wiring or the ignition system, disconnect the white (+) from the coil, leave the white wire for the module connected, supply power to the coil with a jumper to the battery and test the voltage, if it is the same as the battery without a voltage drop, try starting it, if it starts it's in the bike wiring.
It ran for 200 miles, timing isn't the issue.
It backfired because of intermitent spark, and the exhaust was loaded up with raw fuel.
It ran for 200 miles, timing isn't the issue.
It backfired because of intermitent spark, and the exhaust was loaded up with raw fuel.