on a 91 electraglide should I do cam and push rods and 4 new lifters.or 1

lifter the pushrods seem to cost the same as taking the head off is there a cheaper way .I ve got the none adjustable rod s now

 

You don't need to remove the head to pull the pushrods. Just the rockerbox covers and the rockers. Depending on the miles, you probably can't go wrong swapping in new lifters along with the cam change. IIRC, ya gotta pull the rear lifter block anyway so you can check the end play on the cam and either add/remove shims.

 

The pushrods are just rods, so unless there is something seriously wrong with one of them I don't see any benefit in replacing them. The lifters are probably all the same age and if they are over 20 years old it would be a kindness to pension them all off, so I would replace the set. Unless you've had the bike a long time and know its history, take a close look at the cam, to check if it is stock or aftermarket. An Andrews EV27 or EV13 will be well worth putting in if it is stock.

 

thank you very much I didnt want to take the heads off I was going to use bolt cutters as im not much of a mechanic the ez install would probably be better than the stock ones would I be right on that

 

I've only ever used the stock pushrods!

 

You will get different opinions on whether to use the old pushrods and remove the stuff to get them out, or cut the old ones and replace with adjustable quick install pushrods. I cut mine out when I did mine and put in Harley Screaming Eagle quick install pushrods and they have worked just fine. I did not change the cam on mine as all I wanted to do was change out the bad INA cam bearing. So if I decide to change the cam later I will not have to remove all the stuff that needs removed to get the stock pushrods out. That will also let me change out the lifters later the easy way. Your bike should have the good Torrington bearing so you should not have a problem with that.

 

I've had 3 different kinds of easy install pushrods, and unless Screaming Eagle has straightened their act up, they are the worse to work with. They didn't run the flat up the adjuster far enough, so you can't hold the adjuster with a wrench while turning the nut. A little dirt holding the nut from turning, and you have to use pliers on the threads to hold the adjuster. You muck up the threads, and....etc. Get something else. My favs are the Taper Light by Rivera, but they have really fine threads, 40 per inch, which makes them sensitive to tools, ie, mucking up the threads is easy. There are many kinds out there. Don't go too cheap. I had one set, really cheap off eBay, they weren't straight, and they were fat, and they banged the tubes which sounded like a piston slap. I had the heads off about 3 times chasing that noise before I saw the rubbing on the pushrods.

 

Have to agree the Taper Light by Rivera have been nice easy and run in will with all diff lifters. Think i would change all the lifter... unless u only put a couple thousand miles on a year. Put a lifter in it and go. Change them in the off season. If it broke clean out the screen also.........

 

also should I clean the oil pump or replace

 

feuling lifters...ev27...rockerbox gaskets...pushrod seals...cam shims...Torrington...cam cover seal is there anything else maybe 60 pints of beer seriously thanks for your responses