1990 Ultra Classic Ping Machine
Road Warrior
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,251
Likes: 1
Fwiw, I personally feel like 45/185 is entirely too lean for a 10 to 1 evo motor, you should have a 48-50/195-200 and a needle, a little fuel will bring the combustion temp down. Check the voes and I would even do a compression check, make sure you didn't knock a ring land off,
Road Captain
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 675
Likes: 32
From: Massachusetts
Fwiw, I personally feel like 45/185 is entirely too lean for a 10 to 1 evo motor, you should have a 48-50/195-200 and a needle, a little fuel will bring the combustion temp down. Check the voes and I would even do a compression check, make sure you didn't knock a ring land off,
Road Master
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,062
Likes: 18
From: Beautiful SW Missouri Ozark Mountain Country
@Gunslingertom - I run the best I can find which is usually either 91 or 93 and have tried adding an octane boost. But this thing ran great and never pinged before my trip, so that isnt the case I dont think. The guy who had it before me used to run 91 through it for years and never had the problem. I found a pump with some 107 octane last week and tried a gallon of that. The power was ridiculous, but the ping was still there.
And by the way, I love the look of your '90 Ultra. Thats my next step to remove all the hardware from the rear of the bike. How difficult was that and do you still use the tour pack at all?
@Uncle G - I've recently realized that although the internals of the Evo may be only 20K miles young, the rest of her is 23 years and 70k miles old. So it is very possible that things are just starting to wear out. I'm hoping that it is just the VOES. Shouldn't be hard to replace. Where would you recommend getting one if it is bad? Stealership or 3rd party?
And by the way, I love the look of your '90 Ultra. Thats my next step to remove all the hardware from the rear of the bike. How difficult was that and do you still use the tour pack at all?
@Uncle G - I've recently realized that although the internals of the Evo may be only 20K miles young, the rest of her is 23 years and 70k miles old. So it is very possible that things are just starting to wear out. I'm hoping that it is just the VOES. Shouldn't be hard to replace. Where would you recommend getting one if it is bad? Stealership or 3rd party?
I stripped my bike in a weekend, but it took me a little while to collect all the aftermarket and stock parts that I wanted to add. The license plate bracket was hard to find. But when I saw mine appear on eBay with a BIN option, I didn't hesitate. Many here have tried to find them and failed. They only came on the FLHS, so they are rare.
I do use a tour pack on longer rides with the wife unit. Mine didn't have one when I bought it. I got an old one from a shovelhead bike because I hate all the Christmas tree lights on the Electra Glides. And then I cut out the side marker light depressions and filled them with fiberglass. So my tour pack has no lights whatsoever. Hopefully I'll get it painted this winter.
As for your switch, if it's bad, you can get them nearly anywhere they sell HD parts. I find my HD dealership has nearly competitive prices on stuff like that, and I don't have to pay shipping or wait for it.
I too am betting that VOES is bad. I bet the diaphragm was weak to begin with and over heating and hard running didn't help it a bit. A bad VOES would explain nearly every symptom you have.
Road Warrior
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,251
Likes: 1
Depends on the bike, a good baseline is 27.5 pilot, 165 main and the middle squirter with .080 on the pump ARM,
Road Captain
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 675
Likes: 32
From: Massachusetts
ha, very close. 27.5 pilot, 167.5main, -98 needle (leaner) on 2nd clip slot (might go to 3rd to boost midrange fueling just a touch). gotta doublecheck the accelerator pump...think it comes in a bit sooner than .080"
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 9,332
Likes: 3,873
From: Upstate New York
@Uncle G - I've recently realized that although the internals of the Evo may be only 20K miles young, the rest of her is 23 years and 70k miles old. So it is very possible that things are just starting to wear out. I'm hoping that it is just the VOES. Shouldn't be hard to replace. Where would you recommend getting one if it is bad? Stealership or 3rd party?
Changing/testing the VOES is a matter of getting at it. You can see it up under the tank behind the carb, between the cylinders. I removed the fuel tanks on my Softail, and you'll probably have to do the same. Disconnect the vacuum line from the carb, and unplug the two wires. The switch is held on to a bracket (or in my case, the top motor mount) by a push fastener. It may be easier to remove the bracket and deal with the push fastener on the workbench (it was for me).
You can test the switch with a vacuum pump and an ohmmeter. The service manual will give you the exact specification for how many inches of mercury it should take to open the switch.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,468
Likes: 12
From: Bluffton, South Carolina
Hook up the VOES, all street bikes that have the ability to run the VOES should, so set the switches to reflect that. The VOES retards the timing under high load/low vacuum conditions thereby decreasing the chances of detonation. Fuel...Do you get your fuel from a station that has one hose or three??? One hose gets you a gallon or more of whaever was pumped last. This is usually 89 octane. When this mixes with the 91/93 that you are probably paying for you end up with 90/91 octane gas with ethanol in it so it makes detonation easier. When you hook up a functioning VOES and make sure you have the best gas possible you will be able to go to setting 3 or even 2 on your ignition. Also if you have a smart phone you can get an app called "pure gas" that will tell you where the neares gas station is that has non-ethanol gas. Hope this helps.
P.S. You should probably do a compression and leak down tes as the high heat can cook the rings or cylinders allowing small amounts of oil to dilute the mixture lowering the octane rating leading to detonation.
John
P.S. You should probably do a compression and leak down tes as the high heat can cook the rings or cylinders allowing small amounts of oil to dilute the mixture lowering the octane rating leading to detonation.
John
Last edited by miacycles; Aug 13, 2013 at 06:45 PM.
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