Clutch won't stay adjusted
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Novice
Joined: Apr 2013
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From: Independence Mo
Clutch won't stay adjusted
Hope there is someone that can help. I have a "96" ultra with 40000 miles on it. I have spent the last 10000 miles trying to keep my clutch adjusted, yes I know the bike has to be cool when adj is made. I have adj in the primary 4 or 5 times and at the turnbuckle more than I can count. It seems to do nicely when it's cool outside' but let it get over 90 and after about 45 min it doesn't want to shift like it is not disengaging and the lever doesn't spring back like normal. It acts like the cable is getting stuck I have lubbed it and it works very smooth but still has this problem when hot. The cable runs through the fairing and down by the rear master cylinder and it looks good I can't see any damage. I haven't checked the discs because it works great most of the time. I'm ready to buy and install a new clutch cable just not sure it will help. Has any body else had this happen please help it's a pain in the a-- Thank you
Tourer
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 259
Likes: 1
From: Kingston, Ontario
When you adjusted the clutch in the primary was it out or just checking? Did you check the primary chain tension? I woul also take off the side cover and ensure no binding where the cable enters the transmision and the ball ramp setup as well as the pushrod and bearing are all ok for the price of a gasket.
Cheers
Cheers
I just had this problem on my 1996 Ultra. It sounds like it could be the clutch spring plate. I didn't even know it existed until this happened.
It is pretty much 2 steel clutch plates held together by brass rivets. Over time the rivets sheer and problems occur. My Ultra only has 30k miles on it. I tried everything.
Here is a pic of the problematic plate:
I bought a clutch kit that eliminates that plate only because it is a matter of time before it goes again.
One other thing to check that is common is the throwout bearing. It is located under the right side cover where the clutch cable goes in.
It is basically 2 washers with a roller bearing in the middle. If that roller goes bad it can cause the symptoms you are describing.
Here is a pic of it:
I hope this helps.
It is pretty much 2 steel clutch plates held together by brass rivets. Over time the rivets sheer and problems occur. My Ultra only has 30k miles on it. I tried everything.
Here is a pic of the problematic plate:
I bought a clutch kit that eliminates that plate only because it is a matter of time before it goes again.
One other thing to check that is common is the throwout bearing. It is located under the right side cover where the clutch cable goes in.
It is basically 2 washers with a roller bearing in the middle. If that roller goes bad it can cause the symptoms you are describing.
Here is a pic of it:
I hope this helps.
Tourer
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 306
Likes: 1
From: SoCal
Clutch won't stay adjusted
This probably isn't your problem but I'll mention it anyway. One time after
adjusting my clutch using the cable adjuster I rode my bike maybe 10 miles
and the play on my clutch lever kept increasing the further I rode to the
point where I didn't have any clutch pull at all. After taking a look at the
cable adjuster I discovered I had tightened the nut on the adjuster itself
instead of the end where the nut locks to the cable. So basically the fact
that the adjuster was not locked it just unscrewed itself and increased
the slack in the cable.
Well the fact is I've been wrenching on
Harley's for 35 years and I just turned 69 yo this May. I noticed the last
few months I've been making dumb mistakes I wouldn't done in the past.
I think it's time to hang up my tools for good! Anyway just thought it
might be your problem.
adjusting my clutch using the cable adjuster I rode my bike maybe 10 miles
and the play on my clutch lever kept increasing the further I rode to the
point where I didn't have any clutch pull at all. After taking a look at the
cable adjuster I discovered I had tightened the nut on the adjuster itself
instead of the end where the nut locks to the cable. So basically the fact
that the adjuster was not locked it just unscrewed itself and increased
the slack in the cable.
Well the fact is I've been wrenching onHarley's for 35 years and I just turned 69 yo this May. I noticed the last
few months I've been making dumb mistakes I wouldn't done in the past.
I think it's time to hang up my tools for good! Anyway just thought it
might be your problem.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,664
Likes: 184
From: Indiana, USA
The only time I had a problem like this drove me crazy for some time. I checked and double checked everything then 1 day sitting and getting ready to pull out on the street, the clutch engaged and killed the motor, my clutch cable broke in two. Installed the new clutch cable and the old problem went away. The cable was apparently fraying inside the sheath and sticking at times creating the problem. Couldn't see it and the outside of the sheath looked good.
As for the throwout bearing, dumped one of those once too, basically all of the little needle bearings rolled out into the bottom of the tranny and all of a sudden had no clutch. Amazing ly theneedle dimeter was all it took to go from a functional clutch to non. I keep a throwout bearing in my tool roll now. FYI, I counted the pockets for needles and using a magnet found all the needles during the R&R.
As for the throwout bearing, dumped one of those once too, basically all of the little needle bearings rolled out into the bottom of the tranny and all of a sudden had no clutch. Amazing ly theneedle dimeter was all it took to go from a functional clutch to non. I keep a throwout bearing in my tool roll now. FYI, I counted the pockets for needles and using a magnet found all the needles during the R&R.
The only time I had a problem like this drove me crazy for some time. I checked and double checked everything then 1 day sitting and getting ready to pull out on the street, the clutch engaged and killed the motor, my clutch cable broke in two. Installed the new clutch cable and the old problem went away. The cable was apparently fraying inside the sheath and sticking at times creating the problem. Couldn't see it and the outside of the sheath looked good.
As for the throwout bearing, dumped one of those once too, basically all of the little needle bearings rolled out into the bottom of the tranny and all of a sudden had no clutch. Amazing ly theneedle dimeter was all it took to go from a functional clutch to non. I keep a throwout bearing in my tool roll now. FYI, I counted the pockets for needles and using a magnet found all the needles during the R&R.
As for the throwout bearing, dumped one of those once too, basically all of the little needle bearings rolled out into the bottom of the tranny and all of a sudden had no clutch. Amazing ly theneedle dimeter was all it took to go from a functional clutch to non. I keep a throwout bearing in my tool roll now. FYI, I counted the pockets for needles and using a magnet found all the needles during the R&R.
Thread Starter
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Novice
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 20
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From: Independence Mo
clutch won't stay adjusted
Hey guys thank you so much for the input several of the things mentioned I didn't even know about but I will check each thing you have suggested and no doubt one of them will fix it. This is such an invaluable source of info I am learning so much about my bike and I love the fact I can fix it myself (at least when I have all of you to assist me). Awesome Web Site Thanks again.
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Joined: Apr 2013
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From: Independence Mo
clutch won't stay adjusted
HeyPoPo75 you were right about the spring plate! When I finally pulled the clutch apart I had all kinds of stuff in the bottom of my clutch basket am surprised it worked as well as it did with all that loose stuff in there. I put in new friction discs and spring plate and good as new. I can actually get into neutral now with the engine running WOW! that is awesome thank you soooooo much for the help. safe ridding to all.
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