OK guys, thought I’d do an official build thread since you guys have been so helpful (whether you realize It or not).. I actually took it out for a spin today, so, its essentially done.. There may be some details that can be of use for others, I’ve actually done more than just the engine work, but I’ll start there..
Anyhow, this is my ’95 Ani Ultra Classic. It began life as an MMI bike and done me well for the 1.5yrs and 15k mi since I’ve had it. I bought it in pieces and thought I may just put it together to sell it. This year, I finally decided I’d keep it. So, a cam, bars and new seat were in the cards, and since I had some ’00 lower fork legs too, brakes just made sense.... With my research, I came to the conclusion that it would be better to swap to a carb than upgrade the EFI(read cheaper).. So, I began deconstruction and gathering parts. Once I got down to the manifold, I talked myself into new pistons! Well, the simple cam and piston swap turned into a major ordeal.. Long story short, I found a pretty bad gouge in the cylinder wall, just below the rings. We found that the pinion bearing/race had spun and left a trail of metal through the engine.. Previous owner had installed S&S rods, but they were seriously light in torque, and the crank had .025” run-out.. I also found a lifter going bad upon closer inspection.. The roller has about .010 of play.. Bottom end has now been completely rebuilt and balanced, jugs are .020 over with Wiseco 10:1’s, and heads have been treated to a valve job with port work and I've gone with the EVL3020..

 

More engine... One of the studs gave me a fit coming out, I won....

 

Few more of the engine..

 

nice job dude

 

Next few are regarding the front wheel.. I used '00 lowers, '06 FLX wheels, 1" bearings/axle, '10 Brembo calipers, rotors and line(w/o ABS). The biggest issue was figuring out the speedo drive. The 1" axle actually tapers down to 3/4" on the left side (original axle was 3/4"). My indi found a drive for a '94 FXLR(Drag Spec. #DSDS243848) that would fit and act as the proper spacer for the new sealed bearings (note: I did use a stamped washer of about .010"). I then drilled the hole for the tab and turned the axle down to 3/4" the additional .825" necessary to run the drive. This worked beautifully, the last mod was a little grinding on the lower to fit the bulge.. After a 40mi road test today, it all seems well.. Bled the calipers with DOT 5 and used my original master.. Awesome upgrade, these things work!!

 

Thanks John, that means a lot!

 

Couple more... More to come tomorrow.....

 

Great job. I bet it runs out nice.

 

I'm pretty happy so far.. Havent really gotten on it yet, but it does run well.. Never thought there was anything wrong with it before, but its definitely smoother and stronger..

 

in my shop we looked at that speedo drive as well doing it like that / but replacements and real cost of replacements took that off the page, customers would not be happy paying that labor again for a new drive -- BUT i will say, super way you did that BTW

we took the trans case and at angle bored the hole for the magnetic pickup in the early case, we did it if we were leaving it 5 speed, the 6 speed conversions have the hole in the thicker cover at the end on the R/S so that is a no brainer