Yah, I was just about to say the same thing ... the needle with a circlip sounds like it might be a Dynojet and the Dynojet and OEM/CVP parts are not mutually compatible.

I'd say get rid of the Dynojet parts.

 

thanks for the help guys. as far as the original needle, i swapped it with the cv performance needle. i also swapped the emulsion tube, main jet, slow jet, and spring also.

this morning i thought i would hook up my lm-2 wideband up and see how it would work on a bike. we use it alot on our vw's during drag racing season.

anyway, the 40 slow jet was way lean, the 45 slow at idle was around 15.5-16 afr, and would jump to 17ish at around 1500-1800 rpm. a switch to the 46 slow showed idle at 15-15.3 and part throttle 1500-1800 was around 15.5-15.8. right on the money.

the main was a little harder to get. the 170 would go real lean (over 19) after the initial squirt from the accelerator pump. big reason the bike would fall on its face when i snapped the throttle. the 180 was pretty close going to around 14 after squirt. the 185 main fell pretty dang good at 13.5 after squirt.

during the accel squirt all air/fuel ratios with all mains would hit 12.2-12.5.

we went for about a 100 mile ride today thru the mountains (talimena drive) and had a great time. bike ran very well no coughing, spitting, just a nice solid ride.

the only downside was about 10 miles from home i started hearing a weird sound and it was rpm specific. only heard in 5th gear and only over 65mph. weird for sure, but i believe i found the problem. exhaust heat shield clamp is touching the cover over the rear master cylinder. i put some heat shrink between them and took it down the road, and didn't hear the sound any more. hopefully that is what it was, but i had let the bike cool down before doing this.

 

Great info. I may need to pick up a 46. I'm running 45/185 with the 88 Sportster needle. Thanks.

 

92fatty. thanks but thought i would give one final update as of today.

for reference with our drag vw's we have an O2 sensor bung welded into the exhaust for the wideband to hook up to. on my bike since i didn't have this option i used a mount that places the O2 sensor at the end of the exhaust pipe. it is alot better to have the sensor placed inside the exhaust instead of out at the end due to air quality. not sure how to explain it in words but if you think about it with the sensor end totally inside the pipe there is very little if any outside air (think wind) to effect your readings. with the sensor at the end of the pipe (like i did my testing) you can get different readings due to air circulation around the sensor.

so today i redid some testing on one of my vw's just to see. i got different readings with the sensor mounted inside the exhaust (screwed into the bung) and sensor mounted at the end of the pipe (like i did on the bike). these readings were NOT hugely different, but they were slightly different. these tests showed the sensor mounted at the rear of the pipe (bike location) gave slightly LEANER readings than the sensor mounted inside the pipe.

went back to the bike this morning and redid all my previous tests and used the datalogger to keep check on everything. test results with sensor mounted in same location as last time showed almost identical results. i removed one of the mufflers from my V&H longshots and installed a small sleeve with an O2 sensor bung welded in. reinstalled the muffler and tried the tests over. results were slightly different.

take into consideration that i only tested the FRONT cylinder since i don't have 2 seperate O2 sensors. on my bike the 45 slow jet puts me dead on AFR wise at idle 15.2-15.5, and part throttle was right at 16. the 180 main was still slightly lean in the midrange (could be needle related also), but was spot on in the higher rpms. the 46 slow put me at the high end of good AFR readings at idle (14.8-15.2) and part throttle was right at 15.5. the 185 main leaves the midrange perfect but full throttle jumps to 12 (slightly rich) but leans out to 13 at rpms over 4000.

for me i'm going to stay with 46/185 for now. seems to be the best compromise. i'm not looking for best hp nor do i ride very fast (70mph is my max), so my goal is best low and mid power. i'm still trying to learn exactly how the needle and the off center hole in the slide affect the transition of the carb. mine shows transition happening at around 1800-2000 rpm and that seems a little low to me. this may be the reason the 180 main goes slightly lean in that area. i have ordered a new slide (with unmodified off center hole like my current slide) to test also.

 

I would stay with the 180 main. Main jet controls 3/4 to full throttle, and it seems to be dead on in that range.

Adjust the needle for midrange (1/4 -3/4 throttle). Try putting 1 or 2 shims (thin washers) under the needle. Raising the needle will richen the midrange. The other option is to go to a richer needle. I believe the N65C will be slightly richer.

Good information...stay with it.

 

Thanks Hog. Great info. Post up a pic of the FLH if ya have one. As for the slide mine is drilled out to 7/64. This was one of the first mods I did when I frequented HTT. John was very knowledgeable and recommended the 7/64 rather than 1/8 like nightrider recommends. My carb has worked great since the mods. What needle did you get from cv performance?

I found your picture of your FLH.

 

i used the needle that came with my cv performance deluxe tuners kit.

 

Has anyone review the alternative low profile accelerator pump nozzle CV Performance sell, or their other products?

Do they create any noticeable difference?

 

14.8 to 15.2 is lean for a Evo in the cruise area, you hit 95 degrees and the risk of detonation goes up.

When reading with a AFR reader on a CV, the low jet only covers off idle plus air screw control which is at idle. Needle controls a long way in the CV, raise your needle as previously mentioned 13.8 cruise is good for detonation and accelleration, you can run up to 14.2 to squeeze some fuel mileage but have noticed a slight slight hesitation in giddy up. Big jet comes in around 3/4 as mentioned and 13.0 -13.2 will live. Going into the 12's at WOT will produce a flat or dragging power and a basic Evo won't burn the fuel.

Noticed that a CV accellerator pump floods the carb then settles back quickly to normal AFR's and not adjustable, it never affected my bike and ran well but just noticed the richness spike.

14.8-15.0 is what newer bikes run and run hot to make them capable of sneaking by EPA. that is why fuel alter devices are a big market with Twinkies. You may be running in this range now and all is well but be careful my friend when the hot temps come in and listen for the marbles

 

Thanks for sharing this information. I have made several changes over the winter and will also be in the tuning mode. Currently running a 46 slow jet, sportster needle, and a 165 main. I found late last year the timing was retarded, changed this and the performance improved. My winter projects included a Dyna 2000i ignition, Cobra true dual, Big City Thunder baffles at the end of the head of the head pipe, and 4-inch Rinehart slip ons. Before these changes the stock exhaust was used with Thunder Header slip ons.

I like the CV carb and most likely will need to tune it. The interesting part of your post was the mid-range comment. I would rather the bike run cool and perform versus a better mpg. Do not hotrod much, but do not want detonation with the new ignition. This is a great forum and my short time as a member I have learned a lot. Thanks to all for sharing.