How do i check the compensator
Okay. Pulled the primary cover to properly check and adjust the chain and I wanted to check the compensator nut, but after pulling the cover there's nothing in the service manual at all. I noticed a couple things. My shoe looks brand new and there's a chunk of metal missing. I think the old shoe must have broke and the chain hit the case and the previous owner had it repaired.
So how do I check the compensator? I have a one inch drive and socket to fit but I need to pick up the adapter so my torque wrench can fit if needed. I did put the wrench on to see if it was tight and the whole thing moved about 1/4 to 1/2 or an inch and stopped and moved back as well. Looks like it's suppose to have some play.
Can someone assist?
So how do I check the compensator? I have a one inch drive and socket to fit but I need to pick up the adapter so my torque wrench can fit if needed. I did put the wrench on to see if it was tight and the whole thing moved about 1/4 to 1/2 or an inch and stopped and moved back as well. Looks like it's suppose to have some play.
Can someone assist?
Last edited by br549A1; May 7, 2014 at 04:58 AM.
Is that movement normal as part of the compensators function? I can't torque it until I get an adapter or new socket.
I think you were turning the crankshaft with the nut on the compensator. The chain stayed still, right? What appears to be a metal dome directly under the bolt head in actually a spring pack. There are a few heavy springs in there that compress two cam plates together. When the engine is reved, the cam plates will want to ride up higher toward the top of the cam ramps. The spring pack trys to keep the cam plates at there lowest position. The function of this is to smooth out the shock pulses from the motor to the clutch basket and transmission. I think if you look through your service manual you will find the compensator clutch addressed in a different section.
The bolt will need to be removed and red lock tite re applied to do it correctly. If you just tighten it it will break the lock tite free. Pre 07 comps are not subject to the failers that the later one's are. Was it giving you a reason to check it?
No clunks just had it open to adjust the chain correctly and wanted to make sure it wasn't a cause of any vibrations and that it wasn't bad.
I blocked the chain/sprocket with a soft thick rag thicker as it went in. The chain stopped then the whole assembly moved then stopped. I was just checking to see if tight. Then in reverse same thing moved a little then moved the sprocket and chain then spit the rag out. I just checked my torque wrench and it only goes to 150#. I was going to buy a socket adapter for the 3/4 drive but i don't want to buy a new torque wrench as well.
I blocked the chain/sprocket with a soft thick rag thicker as it went in. The chain stopped then the whole assembly moved then stopped. I was just checking to see if tight. Then in reverse same thing moved a little then moved the sprocket and chain then spit the rag out. I just checked my torque wrench and it only goes to 150#. I was going to buy a socket adapter for the 3/4 drive but i don't want to buy a new torque wrench as well.
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Went to pick up a 1/2 - 3/4 adapter and they rented me a torque wrench for free. I don't know what I'm looking for here but I had to use the air gun to get it off. It was tight as hell
You are looking in the wrong part to see the locktight.
You have to look at the threads.
I have to use an impact every time I get mine off.










