Primary/tranny leak
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Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 70
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From: America
Primary/tranny leak
*I have bought a 1985 flhtc and love it. This is my first Harley and have spent the last 1st month riding and diagnosing a primary/tranny leak. We have changed all the primary gaskets (I have a nonmechanic for a friend that is helping me/tools). I am still leaking about a quarter size spot a night. I am thinking about using some die to drop a few drops in the tranny and see if that is where the leak is coming from. Thoughts?
*I am going to collect the parts to do the job. From where is the problem? I have spoken to some techs and they say the is a bushing, spacer or something that can get pushed and it will leak. They say that if the shaft is able to move I have a bigger problem than gaskets or bushings. Any knowledge out there on this issue? any othe post will do. Thanks
*I am going to collect the parts to do the job. From where is the problem? I have spoken to some techs and they say the is a bushing, spacer or something that can get pushed and it will leak. They say that if the shaft is able to move I have a bigger problem than gaskets or bushings. Any knowledge out there on this issue? any othe post will do. Thanks
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,872
Likes: 83
From: Canton, Michigan
Reach up behind the inner primary between the drive pulley and the transmission. If it's wet, you've got a output shaft seal leaking. Most commonly caused by the lock plate loosening up on the drive pulley, which allows the pulley to move away from the output seal. Which will then leak.
If it turns out to be the output seal, it's a couple hour job, as you need to remove the outer and inner primary. Then remove the drive pulley. The compensator nut and the drive pulley nut are torqued really tight. Air tools help.
If it turns out to be the output seal, it's a couple hour job, as you need to remove the outer and inner primary. Then remove the drive pulley. The compensator nut and the drive pulley nut are torqued really tight. Air tools help.
Last edited by Hackd; Jun 30, 2014 at 11:07 AM.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 6,590
Likes: 444
From: Ohio
You probably wasted your time trying to fix a primary leak. It is more than likely the trans output shaft seal. The other advice you got is worst-case scenario. Get a manual and study it before you and your non-mechanic friend go any farther.
Road Warrior
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,959
Likes: 2
From: Florida
Mine leaks there....oh well, who cares, I don't. I used to be all **** about it, but I gave up.
Cruiser
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 163
Likes: 1
From: Broomall
agreed though, rip off inner primary and sprocket. i'm sure you'll find the issue then
Road Warrior
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,741
Likes: 1
From: South Jersey
It could be the seal on the inner primary case. If so, it's a slightly easier fix. You need to determine which seal is leaking.
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Road Master
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 957
Likes: 2
From: Carlsbad Springs Ontario
As Hacked said , feel up under the primary case where the trans. ouput shaft is located .
If you feel very heavy trans. lube on your fingers . then go to your youtube fix and change all oil seals . Also check the runout on the trans. output shaft to see if the trans. is in need of a overhaul.
If you feel very heavy trans. lube on your fingers . then go to your youtube fix and change all oil seals . Also check the runout on the trans. output shaft to see if the trans. is in need of a overhaul.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 21,032
Likes: 12,560
From: South Carolina
You will need a puller to remove the clutch.
http://www.phatperformanceparts.com/...FXMR7AodFzMACA
A locking bar to immobilize the clutch and compensator in order to loosen and torque the compensator and clutch hub retaining nuts.
You will need a 1-1/2" socket for the compensator nut.
A 1-1/8" socket for the clutch hub retaining nut.
If you are going to replace all the seals, you will also need a puller to remove the inner primary bearing from the mainshaft and a special 1-7/8" deep socket for the pulley nut.
A standard deep socket will not work, so you will have to buy or make one.
Once you are in there, you need to determine what pulley you have (original design, or the upgraded setup that came out in `94), if the old type pulley setup is still on the bike it should be upgraded.
Don`t buy any transmission seals or parts until you have the driveline disassembled.
http://www.phatperformanceparts.com/...FXMR7AodFzMACA
A locking bar to immobilize the clutch and compensator in order to loosen and torque the compensator and clutch hub retaining nuts.
You will need a 1-1/2" socket for the compensator nut.
A 1-1/8" socket for the clutch hub retaining nut.
If you are going to replace all the seals, you will also need a puller to remove the inner primary bearing from the mainshaft and a special 1-7/8" deep socket for the pulley nut.
A standard deep socket will not work, so you will have to buy or make one.
Once you are in there, you need to determine what pulley you have (original design, or the upgraded setup that came out in `94), if the old type pulley setup is still on the bike it should be upgraded.
Don`t buy any transmission seals or parts until you have the driveline disassembled.
Last edited by Dan89FLSTC; Jun 30, 2014 at 08:36 PM.
Road Warrior
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,959
Likes: 2
From: Florida
You will need a puller to remove the clutch.
http://www.phatperformanceparts.com/...FXMR7AodFzMACA
A locking bar to immobilize the clutch and compensator in order to loosen and torque the compensator and clutch hub retaining nuts.
You will need a 1-1/2" socket for the compensator nut.
A 1-1/8" socket for the clutch hub retaining nut.
If you are going to replace all the seals, you will also need a puller to remove the inner primary bearing from the mainshaft and a special 1-7/8" deep socket for the pulley nut.
A standard deep socket will not work, so you will have to buy or make one.
Once you are in there, you need to determine what pulley you have (original design, or the upgraded setup that came out in `94), if the old type pulley setup is still on the bike it should be upgraded.
Don`t buy any transmission seals or parts until you have the driveline disassembled.
http://www.phatperformanceparts.com/...FXMR7AodFzMACA
A locking bar to immobilize the clutch and compensator in order to loosen and torque the compensator and clutch hub retaining nuts.
You will need a 1-1/2" socket for the compensator nut.
A 1-1/8" socket for the clutch hub retaining nut.
If you are going to replace all the seals, you will also need a puller to remove the inner primary bearing from the mainshaft and a special 1-7/8" deep socket for the pulley nut.
A standard deep socket will not work, so you will have to buy or make one.
Once you are in there, you need to determine what pulley you have (original design, or the upgraded setup that came out in `94), if the old type pulley setup is still on the bike it should be upgraded.
Don`t buy any transmission seals or parts until you have the driveline disassembled.