evo gear shift linkage
Thread Starter
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Novice
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Victoria Australia
evo gear shift linkage
Hi all I am new to the forum and hope to make new friends. The problem is on my 85 wide glide, the bolt that holds the pivot part of the gear shift linkage behind the inner casing. The bush is worn out. How can I repair this without taking off the inner case?, the bolt hits the case and does not come out.
I bet this question has been asked before.
I bet this question has been asked before.
Road Warrior
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,959
Likes: 2
From: Florida
Hi all I am new to the forum and hope to make new friends. The problem is on my 85 wide glide, the bolt that holds the pivot part of the gear shift linkage behind the inner casing. The bush is worn out. How can I repair this without taking off the inner case?, the bolt hits the case and does not come out.
I bet this question has been asked before.
I bet this question has been asked before.
http://betterlever.com/
there are some other solutions, like shaving the gap on the shift arm wider with a dremel tool so it clamps better to the transmission shaft.
Thread Starter
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Novice
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Victoria Australia
Thanks bluharley. The part I mean is on the 85 wide glide and is the shift lever assembly they all have forward controls I think. It is in behind the inner primary, you can undo the bolt but it is to long to get out and hits the primary. I am hoping that someone here has the answer.
Cruiser
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 216
Likes: 4
From: Laurinburg, NC
Thanks bluharley. The part I mean is on the 85 wide glide and is the shift lever assembly they all have forward controls I think. It is in behind the inner primary, you can undo the bolt but it is to long to get out and hits the primary. I am hoping that someone here has the answer.
Road Warrior
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,644
Likes: 437
From: Mount Rainier, Washington
I'm not really following what you are asking since Wide Glides have forward controls linked to the rotary top trans on an 85. What bushing are you referring to? There isn't anything on the inner primary.
Thread Starter
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Novice
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Victoria Australia
The part is just before the gearbox selector and bolts to the gearbox. My problem is that the bolt wont come out because it to long and comes up against the inner primary.
Shadowchrome I have pushed up and down and every witch way and the bolt head is still against the casing. the bolt is loose as just cant go side ways.
Shadowchrome I have pushed up and down and every witch way and the bolt head is still against the casing. the bolt is loose as just cant go side ways.
Road Warrior
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,476
Likes: 23
From: Summit, Mississippi
MOCO at some times on some models used a solid lever where you're talking about and these don't usually give much trouble. BUT....on some models....they saved 50-cents and used a lever that was formed by bending it back on itself....it's not solid and will be more apt to strip where it attaches to the tranny shifting shaft. If you can't get that bolt tight enough to hold it, or it's bottomed-out already, I think the inner primary has to come off to get it out and replace it. If it's just a matter of the bolt being stripped, but it will back out enough.....can you get a nut on that bolt from the bottom and tighten it after you have backed the bolt out enough for the threads to hold? I've never tried, but I have a friend that has a mid-90's wide glide that is "barely" working and he's trying to hold off as long as he can, or until he has some other reason to remove the inner primary.
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Cruiser
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 181
Likes: 13
I feel your pain,had '79 rotary top with the bushing problem.Every little bit of slop in each part made it a pain to get slop out of it,looks kike you will have to pull primairy.
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From: LA
The "Better Lever" seems a little over priced for what it is ... perhaps it's priced according to how much it would cost to put the bike into a shop to get it done?
It's really not that hard to do - to strip the covers off - you don't need special "special tools" to lock the sprockets ... you can make one kind out of a bar, the other (the stepped one) out of some *hard* wood, or a nylon style kitchen cutting board if you cannot find a right size and strength block of plastic.
Just pay attention not to leave any splinters in!
If removing the inner cover, they recommend fitting new tab washers ... understandable but you'd probably get away with not doing so. Ditto if you have to take the electrics off they advise new bolts to get the right torque. They are cheap.
'Better Lever' advise using a Dremel to cut the old one off ... if you do so, I reckon you won't be able to fit a new non-'Better Lever' type and get it positioned right.
If you're doing on that, take the opportunity to knock a tooth off the compensator sprocket (i.e. put a one tooth less sprocket in) and improve your gearing.
It's really not that hard to do - to strip the covers off - you don't need special "special tools" to lock the sprockets ... you can make one kind out of a bar, the other (the stepped one) out of some *hard* wood, or a nylon style kitchen cutting board if you cannot find a right size and strength block of plastic.
Just pay attention not to leave any splinters in!
If removing the inner cover, they recommend fitting new tab washers ... understandable but you'd probably get away with not doing so. Ditto if you have to take the electrics off they advise new bolts to get the right torque. They are cheap.
'Better Lever' advise using a Dremel to cut the old one off ... if you do so, I reckon you won't be able to fit a new non-'Better Lever' type and get it positioned right.
If you're doing on that, take the opportunity to knock a tooth off the compensator sprocket (i.e. put a one tooth less sprocket in) and improve your gearing.
Last edited by Dun Roamin; Jul 2, 2014 at 03:59 PM.