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Thanks KP, came to the same conclusion after a thorough examination.
I'm thinking the True-Track stop bolt won't adjust to specs because the PO shimmed the front mount. I suppose I'll pull the shims and see.
Right now I'm on dinner break from bleeding the back MC. Had to disassemble the rear brake to get the True - Track in. It better be worth it.
Thanks for all the help everyone. I'll report back later.
I'm not sold on the shim thing, the only way a shim should be required is if your rear mount was sagging excessively allowing the engine to pull off the front, then you should replace the rear, not shim the front. I said it before, I still think alot of these claimed vibration repairs by replacing the front mount are simply masking another problem. If you want more stability the vibratechnics mount makes a big difference, it also absorbs alot. When I replaced my rear it shifted the position of the engine, but I noticed no difference otherwise except being short $116 I can't get back.
After a while I removed that 'adjuster' on my Dyna. As an engineer I could see no purpose for it. Despite tightening it when first installing the kit it came undone and jammed the front mount. A big twin can truly vibrate when under duress! So consider removing yours, or removing the lock nut and tightening the bolt home, to fill the hole.
Yeah I can't figure out what that bolt is supposed to do.
True-Track is in, shims are out. Alignment checked and good. Did the HD service bulletin M-1324 for vibration issues. The only thing different in M-1324 is running the bike with the rear wheel off the ground while all mounts are loose. Initial 10 mile test run shows possibly a bit less vibration and it's slightly different. 58 to 62 is now tolerable.
I'll try to post that bulletin when I'm not posting via phone if anybody's interested.
The True-Track definitely makes my bike less squirrely on the interstate at 70 - 80 mph. It seems to handle the twisties better but I'm a geezer and don't really push it anymore.
"The limiter is to keep the rockerbox from hitting the frame should the motor mount break. What is the distance you are presently able to achieve?"
That's interesting to know. They could usefully include that in the instructions! If you leave it in, smother it in Loctite, so the darned thing doesn't come unscrewed, as mine did.
That's interesting to know. They could usefully include that in the instructions! If you leave it in, smother it in Loctite, so the darned thing doesn't come unscrewed, as mine did.
This is the latest from True-Track:
What we can tell you is that when the clearance can't be brought to the specs indicated the mount is already sagging, or worn, and we do suggest changing both out at that point. I know you indicated you had the bike one year and the PO one year. We've seen mounts worn at 7,000.
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