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Been riding the hell out of her. She didn't get to 165K on the clock by not being concerned about her health and well being.
I may not crack her open until winter!
BTW ... it's the first summer she hasn't been drizzling oil out of the base gasket, blowing hot gas out the head gasket and with that new carburetor I can't stop cranking her right to the limits...lol
My engine has top end done before Christmas using KB pistons...Spanners was sure to read the instructions including ring gap and 4 degree retardation of timing. As for break in, we just fired it up to check for leaks etc...then before it got too hot we took it for a short 10 minute ride. After that I rode it as per normal without over revving or lugging it, simple. After 600 odd miles dumped the oil and put fresh stuff in it. It runs like a champ !!! I hope yours turns out to be the same...good luck.
Thought I'd add some informational links to this conversation, specifics about reading the plugs. These are filled with info I've been reading up on recently and contain loads of pics and information.
Just had a great conversation with my Indy and we came up with a plan to hone and re-ring in the fall.
But the focus of our discussion centered around the original carburetor and the compliance fitting seals for the intake. After the rebuild the old carb was giving me more issues related to the front cylinder intake seal not doing it's job.
What our theory is the leak caused all of the damage by over washing the rear cylinder with gas and causing a lean conditions in the front cylinder. These type of issues is all it takes to ruin a perfect top end overhaul.
Also he pointed out that piston manufacturers have made the rings much smaller and require a finer hone (crosshatch) for break in. Leaving people with issues like mine.
We will approach the matter at the end of riding season, and I've been assured by my Indy, who has become a friend and a valuable resource to me, that the heads and cylinders will be going to the machine shop expert and taken care of properly again in the end.
So for now, "I'm going to closely monitor the oil use and keep fresh plugs in it more often than normally required."
And I'm going to have a great riding season, and many more to come on my old '86 Tour Glide.
Spark plug AFR's set with a Wego AFR O2 reader, carb with AFR's set at 13.2 WOT, 13.8 cruise and 14.2 idle. Timing heat line is in the bend of the strap and a target.
Something else is that todays gas sucks on trying to read plugs, won't get the clean color or lines of the plug posted.
Last edited by 1997bagger; Jan 26, 2019 at 11:58 PM.
That is what I have Wego 3, origionally was using it to build maps in a Powercommander format for the EFI on my bike that worked and learned alot about tuning but chit canned the M&M for a carb.
The Wego 3 is overkill for tuning a carb but very precise, it would be hard to shell out $250 just for tuning a carb but if you lean out one engine then the $250 is a bargain plus a Wego 3 is a data recorder that can print out runs to help, for instance, when running my 127 to set WOT you need big ***** to keep looking down when running 3rd or 4th gear in the 4500-5000 rpm range
The Wego 3 is basically the same sampling system used with a Dyno but a Dyno is loading in a controlled condition, you can ride the bike in a real world condition and basically tune it to riding conditions in the 3 areas of a carb and see crossover points come in, the carb is a simple creature but if you can get the target AFR's that I mentioned with the plug picture is basically the same targets a EFI bike is trying to get. Seeing where raising or lowering a needle puts the midrange which is key for mpg and know where WOT AFR is that provides the most power is vital. Something else is setting cruise AFR with the proper needle adjustment may pay for the Wego if it properly set in a 13.8 to 14.2 area instead of a rich 13.0 by guess which may save $3 per tank full and adds up over time.
Another area that plagues the compression engines with tuning is the second you hear detonation, it is assumed timing is advanced but it may be lean in that area and only hurting performance by retarding timing. Timing retard also richens the engine .1 AFR per 1 degree retard so it is a win situation for detonation but if you had a Wego system reading it, a simple richer jet change rather than retarding the timing is going to keep performance.
Last edited by 1997bagger; Jul 25, 2014 at 04:32 PM.
Thanks for the followup. Excellent info I wasn't aware of.
I'm considering to schedule a top notch Dino mech to adjust my ride when finished with the hone and re-ring. There are many factors that a precise tune will take care of and then I can leave it well enough alone knowing it's the best it can be.
I tinker too much and often cause my own issues! (yep I admit it!! lol)
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