I turned off my accelerator pump and the low speed/rpm miss disappeared.


But, when I twisted the grip hard, as you all know, there was a big dead spot.....


Turned the pump back on and the miss returned.


What's up with that?

 

Tune the miss out.

 

Yea, I'm switching jets and stuff...........

 

Too much seafoam?

 

You do know you can adjust the accelerator pump more than just on/off don't you?

 

Yup.

Changed the jets according to the S&S book and turned the pump back on According to the instructions, and it's worse.

Instructions say, if it's stumbling at low rpm/speeds, it's indicating a rich condition.

If it's popping through the carb, it's lean.

My plugs are white as a ghost, but, the bike is running like it's too rich.

Timing is dead nut on......

I'm going to test the seals between the carb an intake tonight as you suggested.

 

Have you checked your voes switch. It fails open meaning ungrounded and it will run crappy. Mine failed but it's rare. Ohm meter and you can test it at the harness. Pin 6 and 8 on mine. Takes minutes.

 

What jets?

 

Funny you should ask that. My VOES seems to be open ALL the time. According to the instructions on my new ignition, that's the way it's supposed to be?

From the instructions......Note that the wide-open throttle (WOT) curves
are active unless the VOES input is grounded. During
idle and cruise, the VOES input is grounded (green
VOES LED illuminated)

.066 main, .265 intermediate.

 

VOES should ground at idle, when you crack the the throttle open say low rpms half throttle it will open and unground which retards the timing. A failed switch will unground leaving it retarded and open so you won't damage the engine.

The best test is an ohm meter and you can use a vacuum pump or just suck on the vacuum line to the voes with a clear hose. It should read zero on the ohm meter. Mine would fluctuate but never zero. If I tapped on it the reading would fluctuate. I tested the new one before installing and it would zero out every time. It cleaned up a lot of my running and idling issues as it was never advancing and grounding correctly.

It's worth hooking the meter and testing it while the bike is off. It shouldn't take you long at all. There's color coded dots on them when you replace it so you get the right one. I bought an oem but they aren't easy to find.