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I returned the first meter and got another one and re did the tests with the same results. Its not the meter it is operator error. I found a couple good you tube tutorials on how to use a multimeter. I will re-post my results once Im sure I understand what I am doing.
I will do as you suggested as well to eliminate or target the switch... Thanks.
I returned the first meter and got another one and re did the tests with the same results. Its not the meter it is operator error. I found a couple good you tube tutorials on how to use a multimeter. I will re-post my results once Im sure I understand what I am doing.
I will do as you suggested as well to eliminate or target the switch... Thanks.
The trouble with elec. problems is that there are so many variables to deal with and the ideas come by the boat load.
Try not to get bogged down with sophisticated tests and procedures until you have completed the intinial checks.
1) you stated that you " fried " a battery and had the bat. replaced , this would indicate a bad regulator . Do the regulator checks in your manual to ensure the reg. is operating correctly.
2) Dr Hess has described some simple initial checks and procedures to follow with a basic multimeter to get you into the ball park , do as he advises .
3) If you dont already have a HD manual for your particular bike , get one asap as the Haynes and Clymer crap dont even come close , especially for elec. testing.
4) Come back with any results , questions, thoughts .
I am making up a jumper I can use on my ride to work tomm. Thanks.
I have chased many an electrical problem in autos. This can't be alot different. Double ck the basics and make yourself notes as you go. Both on your own test and the suggestions made here.
The trouble with elec. problems is that there are so many variables to deal with and the ideas come by the boat load.
Try not to get bogged down with sophisticated tests .
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