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when I started building my chopper I wanted the same thing fast revs. and your on the right track but you may have skipped a few things in the motor the biggest thing is the valve train you want everything to be as light as possible I used small stem valves and titanium collars cut the weight in half strong springs are a must and the cam needs very aggressive ramps you want those valves to open and close as fast as possible and you need lots of compression
you may have seen this it doesn't do it justice crappy video
my 89 has a sprocket and no compensator hanging on it - it is available in 24 tooth and 25 tooth - on choppy bumps my motor is and can be jerky But it is tweaked in a big way for power - yours could be different - every harley motor made before elect start 1965 Big Twins did not have a compensator
You are onto something, 1 HP gain for every 3 LB of rotating mass is the theory that was used in Unlimited Mudracing. My buddy runs the BDL belt system to remove rotating mass but affected his gear ratio so nothing gained and the cost of the belt drive is expensive.
The twinkies have the direct drive primary pulley but don't see them for a Evo. The best bang I did for accelleration with the smaller stroker was dropping the final gear ratio
I know the cost vs. gain isn't going to weigh out. As for the belt drive I'm not looking in that department I was more looking for chain drive options. When I still had an 80" in this bike I ran a direct drive motor sprocket, but didn't care for the added vibes. I already run a pretty tall ratio, but this motor is built to work within the 25-6500 so the taller ratio works really well for me.
I also started this thread to change the norm up a little. Not that I'm running a huge cubic inch set up, but most of the evo section performance topics are nothing more then a 80" with EV27. Not saying there isn't a wealth of knowledge here either because there is.
I know the cost vs. gain isn't going to weigh out. As for the belt drive I'm not looking in that department I was more looking for chain drive options. When I still had an 80" in this bike I ran a direct drive motor sprocket, but didn't care for the added vibes. I already run a pretty tall ratio, but this motor is built to work within the 25-6500 so the taller ratio works really well for me.
I also started this thread to change the norm up a little. Not that I'm running a huge cubic inch set up, but most of the evo section performance topics are nothing more then a 80" with EV27. Not saying there isn't a wealth of knowledge here either because there is.
Find a machine shop that will cnc everything for you out of titanium... just don't expect it to last long. Titanium has a "memory".
when I started building my chopper I wanted the same thing fast revs. and your on the right track but you may have skipped a few things in the motor the biggest thing is the valve train you want everything to be as light as possible I used small stem valves and titanium collars cut the weight in half strong springs are a must and the cam needs very aggressive ramps you want those valves to open and close as fast as possible and you need lots of compression
89" is a great engine, ran one for 6 years and so versitile, can flog it against the rev limiter or run long distance. The 89" loses piston weight because a flat top can hit 10-1 with a .030 head gasket with some head mods, flat tops have better flame travel and efficient, the extra stroke can pull down low which is another plus.
Wish I had more ideas on shaving weight but just not alot of options, higher horsepower HD engines always seem to draw to parts that are beefier and not break. A obvious boat anchor was the heavy 32 tooth trans pulley, I spent $180 on a chrome moly pulley just in thought of your rotating mass theory.
Dark Horse does the flywheel lightening, knife edging plus rod work just like hardcore automotive racing engines but another subject. Please keep us posted as this is pioneering on here
.190 wall tool steel wrist pins are 130 grams each you could install .087 wall casidiam coated titanium wrist pins ( BTW a dozen dont weigh what a tool steel one weighs ) -- use flat top w/ extra milled areas on cast pistons - casidiam coated titanium connecting rods leave out the brass bushing its heavy - carefull with the knife edge flywheels if you do that you need to oil spray the piston skirts - and use .043 stainless rings with Nikasil coated alloy cylinders, and windage scrape the wheels with a 4 stage oil pump - external oil lines no drainage to the block ( block oil is like running in water up to your knees - externals keep the oil at your ankles ) cam / pinion gear lightning holes - gun drilled cam core - titanium valves, retainers top and bottom - conical single flat wire valve springs - beryllium valve seats - this is a start if you really want it to challenge the dynos speed clock in making the speed of torque in one gear ( 4 th gear )
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