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V-Twin Part Number: 18-0187, but the online v-twin catalog doesn't have a manual download, and I can't find one. I sent the eBay seller a message asking if they could scan the instruction sheet.
@Rains2much the part description says 68 teeth on the ring gear, 37 on the primary chain sprocket
They dont make it easy that part number is also an oil pump lol.. Like you say, a manual doesnt seem available on line anywhere. I was asking about the ring gear cause I wondered if it was sorta a 98 up style clutch hub for a 84-90 on a tapered shaft. Thought just maybe it required a special starter or a 98 up jack shaft with some sorta conversion gear.
Meanwhile, my dial indicator was delivered and I started truing the front wheel. Thank God I still had the original rim, because the newer one had a long dent 1/8-1/4" deep! So I quickly disassembled the wheel, cleaned up the old rim and started over. I put the bad chrome on the left side so you won't see it with the bike parked unless you're looking for it. The shop manual has a very straightforward way of truing, using only four groups of spokes, which you mark with tape. I only paid $20 each for the takeoff wheels from a shop going out of business, so it was worth it for just the spokes.
As mentioned in a previous post, the first step is setting the offset, which is 0.2" towards the brake disk compared to FXWG and FXST/C wheels. Do that for all four sets of spokes and the rim is pretty straight for now.
Then you go round and round and round loosening and tightening the four sets of spokes to get radial runout in spec. I got within 0.020, and the spec is 0.032. I may try to do better tomorrow, but I had to quit to get ready for dinner with my cousin and neighbors.
I will also set the lateral runout and tighten all the spokes tomorrow. Then do the rear wheel and bring them to the shop for tires.
The manual doesn't even require measuring lateral runout, the initial offest setting is sufficient. But I measured it anyway, and after just a few tweaks got it within 0.015".
I rechecked radial runout and improved it to 0.018". Then after I went around the wheel a few times tightening all the spokes, I hit them all with a drift and rubber mallet and gave them all one more tweak.
I just got a message from the eBay seller with clutch adjustment instructions! Basically the four shouldered bolts get bottomed out and that holds the spring almost but not completely flat. It looked like there was a lot more thread than spring so I didn't attempt it. Great seller, goes by autocomracing.
The wheels are at the shop, I got Dunlop D402s front and rear. I wanted D401 in the front but it doesn't come in the unique springer size 80/90-21. The shop tried fitting a 90/90 on a springer before and it rubbed badly.
Meanwhile I cleaned everything up, so I'll be ready to put the bike on the ground before I leave Florida. The rear rotor was badly worn, the previous owner apparently didn't believe in using the front brake. I found a good takeoff on eBay that matches the age of the front.
It dawned on me this morning that I can't install the kickstand without the bracket for the left footpeg. So today I cleaned them all up, and installed everything. Now all I need are the wheels and the rear brake disk to come in. Hopefully Monday!
As you can see I temporarily installed the tanks and seat, so when I put it on it's wheels I can sit on it and say 'vroom-vroom'
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