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yah fast fxd,im gonna do that anymore. im also gonna put it on dyno to get checked out as soon as weather permits. but 2 dealers told me it was from running with engine racing and not having air flow to cool pipes off. i dont think bike is running lean because i average around 45 mpg.
Guys, in the winter in a shop at 35 degrees F you cannot, I repeat cannot overheat the motor in ten minutes, only maybe if you were stationary at really super high rpms, but you only need enough rpms to keep the motor running to let it warm up, anything more than that is unnessary, you would be surprized how long it takes to get the motor to operating temp. with no air going across the cylinders at this degree, heck even in the hot summer time it takes longer to get to operating temps than you think for a cold motor. As far as the pipes rusting from water vapor, if you get the engine to temps it ain't going to happen. My friend has a SE RK with the Daytona Twin Tec ECM, we did some tuning last winter and it took forever to get the bike to closed loop operating temps to do the settings, even when we run the bike on the road, sometimes it would never reach the operating temps required to go to closed loop from open loop, below 50 degrees, now in the summer you would need fan assist cooling for stationary tuning for sure, but even at that every bike that is dyno tuned would blue the pipes on that assumption, it just doesn't happen.
Nutsy,
Thanks for the tip...I won't do that. As for your other question, no, I never heard of that before. I think probably that is because most people don't do that and therefore don't have any stories to share.
As for why it happened, your HD dealer is spot on. IMHO, you never had this problem before because you had Sportys, carbureted engines. Carburetors do not adjust fuel mixture settings for the outside air conditions, fuel injected models do. Your engine was essentially doing what it was suppose to do, adding more fuel to the cylinders to support combustion due to the low temperatures in the cylinders during a cold start-up. Once cylinder temps rise and the sensors indicate proper combustion mixture by reading exhaust gases, the fuel/air mixture will lean out and not "overcharge" your engine with fuel.
So, why did it blue your heat shields so soon too? Simple, heat transfers from hot to cold. The rate at which it transfers is dependent upon the temperature difference between the two materials. In this case your shields were the next coldest thing because you didn't have airflow between the two materials, pipes and shields.
I'm sure some will disagree with my post, but before anyone does, refer to your physics and basic internal combustion engine operation books.
You didn't "trash your pipes", blued pipes look good! It lets folks know you actually ride the bike, pipes with no color at all are usually trailer queens, owned by the rich old RUB's....[]
Just ride the d@mn thing, keep her clean and polished, and accept the fact that motorcycles that are ridden get blued pipes!
03DWG THANKS FOR REPLY,SOUNDS dam confusing to me but ill take your word and traveler i hear ya but with 23 grand for bike i wanna keep looking good.but if they burn again i promise they will stay that way.i wish i was a rub ,well,at least rich.
Make no mistake, I keep Susie "ready for the dance", but I have also accepted the fact that since I want to ride, a little "usage" is gonna show! That said, if your pipe covers are blueing, it means you're bike is running WAY too lean!!!!!!!!!!! This is a VERY bad thing!!! It's need's tuning, pronto!!!!
Trust me, I polish her ALOT, but I ride alot too...at least I try to, and always clean her up afterward, usually do it after a ride, along with tightening bolts, and checking her over. I recommend you do the same!!! These ain't jap bikes! they DO require a little TLC and a wrench to tighten things up! No big deal, it's actually FUN!!!
Be fore-warned, never run your bike once a month during the off season to keep the batterycharged, or just to get it runnning, you are spreading contaminants in the oil that have formedwhile it sits, and you are creating moisture in the cylinders when they cool in the extreme cold from being hot, this causes corrosion on hard polished parts. Store it properly with fresh fluids, gas stabilizer and steel wool in the mouth of the exhaust.
Thorr73 has a good point, by idling it like that you're building up the acid/ moistureconcentration in the oil. If I remember right the routine was to change the oil, start it briefly and leave it off if the bike is wintered. My last bike I had in California, and got to ride it all year, now that I'm in Idaho I'll get to practice "winterizing".
I would rather just let it sit than let it run 10 mins. once a month. It invites condensation and corrosion. Just buy a battery tender and forget it.
I fog my jet-ski engine at the end of the season for winter storage, as well as my boat when I had it. Seems like you could do the same to a bike that sits for many months. Luckily, I can ride at least every several weeks during the winter. I've always heard if don't ride it at least 25 miles to get everything warmed up enough to eliminate the crankcase moisture your doing more harm than good.
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