Pushrod Adjustment -- What If I'm Wrong?
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From: Lenexa, KS (KC)
Pushrod Adjustment -- What If I'm Wrong?
Replaced my cams with 26G's in January. Bike seems to run fine, but I had a tough time adjusting the pushrods. I counted the flats on the adjusting nut as best as I could to give them 4 to 5 turns after the slack was gone per Andrews instructions, but could have easily lost count (didn't read the tip to paint one flat white until it was too late).
My question is -- how do you know if you don't get the pushrods adjusted properly, i.e. slightly out of adjustment? I assume if they are way off the engine won't run, but what if they are only a little off, say I only had 3 turns or went too far and had 6 turns? How will the engine react?
Sure would appreciate some feedback. This has been bugging me since January. [:'(]
My question is -- how do you know if you don't get the pushrods adjusted properly, i.e. slightly out of adjustment? I assume if they are way off the engine won't run, but what if they are only a little off, say I only had 3 turns or went too far and had 6 turns? How will the engine react?
Sure would appreciate some feedback. This has been bugging me since January. [:'(]
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From: NC USA
RE: Pushrod Adjustment -- What If I'm Wrong?
With 3 turns, you'll be OK. Hydraulic lifters have about .020 travel and depending on the threads on the pushtubes you're adjusting them to reach the halfway point of lifter travel. Six turns, again depending upon the threads, is goingto put the lifter near the bottom of it's travel. If it's too tight, it can burn a valve over a short period of time. If you think you're off a few flats here or there, don't worry about it. But as with anything you do to an engine, when in doubt CHECK IT! 
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From: Lenexa, KS (KC)
RE: Pushrod Adjustment -- What If I'm Wrong?
I should be okay, as I had the feeling if I did anything it probably was short a half a turn to a turn.
Now, just to make me smart (again), IF a valve gets burned, what happens then and how do you know?
Now, just to make me smart (again), IF a valve gets burned, what happens then and how do you know?
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RE: Pushrod Adjustment -- What If I'm Wrong?
Well if not sure Id recheck.If there to tight then valves will hit and bend(been here and hated it).Also make sure your adjusting them on heel of cam not on lobe as will be slack when running.Alos allow time between pushrods for lifters to bleed down.Im not rying to be smartas here its just Ive bent valves before for bo off.I know how to fix them but that would scare the heck out of mopst these guys.
So its worth time to dbl check if in doubt.
So its worth time to dbl check if in doubt.
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From: Lenexa, KS (KC)
RE: Pushrod Adjustment -- What If I'm Wrong?
ORIGINAL: wydopn231
Well if not sure Id recheck.If there to tight then valves will hit and bend(been here and hated it).Also make sure your adjusting them on heel of cam not on lobe as will be slack when running.Alos allow time between pushrods for lifters to bleed down.Im not rying to be smartas here its just Ive bent valves before for bo off.I know how to fix them but that would scare the heck out of mopst these guys.
So its worth time to dbl check if in doubt.
Well if not sure Id recheck.If there to tight then valves will hit and bend(been here and hated it).Also make sure your adjusting them on heel of cam not on lobe as will be slack when running.Alos allow time between pushrods for lifters to bleed down.Im not rying to be smartas here its just Ive bent valves before for bo off.I know how to fix them but that would scare the heck out of mopst these guys.
So its worth time to dbl check if in doubt.
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From: Florida
RE: Pushrod Adjustment -- What If I'm Wrong?
Bottom line is you want to preload the lifter .100~.120, the Harley lifter has about .180~.185 of travel so after a push rod is set up by the manufactures instructions they all end up at .100 preload area which gives you .060 or more for a cushion. I've run heads that have been milled .060 and a .030 head gaskets with stock push rods several several times....as long as the lifter bleeds down and yo can spin the rod with your fingers the valve is on the seat and your good to go.
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From: Lenexa, KS (KC)
RE: Pushrod Adjustment -- What If I'm Wrong?
ORIGINAL: Doc 1
Bottom line is you want to preload the lifter .100~.120, the Harley lifter has about .180~.185 of travel so after a push rod is set up by the manufactures instructions they all end up at .100 preload area which gives you .060 or more for a cushion. I've run heads that have been milled .060 and a .030 head gaskets with stock push rods several several times....as long as the lifter bleeds down and yo can spin the rod with your fingers the valve is on the seat and your good to go.
Bottom line is you want to preload the lifter .100~.120, the Harley lifter has about .180~.185 of travel so after a push rod is set up by the manufactures instructions they all end up at .100 preload area which gives you .060 or more for a cushion. I've run heads that have been milled .060 and a .030 head gaskets with stock push rods several several times....as long as the lifter bleeds down and yo can spin the rod with your fingers the valve is on the seat and your good to go.
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From: Florida
RE: Pushrod Adjustment -- What If I'm Wrong?
TDC has nothing to do with the the push rods...you might beat TDC on the exhaust stroke which will make the valve open and pushrod tight. Simply turn the motor over (not with the starter motor) until you see the push rod go down and stop moving...check it there it should spin if not the valve is off the seat because thelifter is bottomed out.
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Outstanding HDF Member
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From: Lenexa, KS (KC)
RE: Pushrod Adjustment -- What If I'm Wrong?
But, at TDC both valves should be closed and on their seats for the plug to fire, right? Figured that would be the best place to check.
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RE: Pushrod Adjustment -- What If I'm Wrong?