Fuel Leaking quick Disconnect
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Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
From: Palm Bay, Florida
I used a dental pick last night attempting to get the old o-ring out but I was not able to remove it.
I was hoping that it would pop right out like it did for other folks here who have tried it, but no such luck.
Do I have to drain the tank before I remove this o-ring?
I have visions of fuel pouring out once the o-ring finally pops out.
I have class tonight so my next attempt will be Thursday after work.
I was hoping that it would pop right out like it did for other folks here who have tried it, but no such luck.
Do I have to drain the tank before I remove this o-ring?
I have visions of fuel pouring out once the o-ring finally pops out.
I have class tonight so my next attempt will be Thursday after work.
Road Master
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 796
Likes: 0
From: Mission Viejo, CA
Thanks for confirming that part # WhiteGoldSG.
I put some o-ring lube on the end of a q-tip yesterday and tried to get it up in there. Hopefully, it'll swell the o-ring. I'll reconnect the fuel line this afternoon and see if it still leaks.
I put some o-ring lube on the end of a q-tip yesterday and tried to get it up in there. Hopefully, it'll swell the o-ring. I'll reconnect the fuel line this afternoon and see if it still leaks.
Road Warrior
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,476
Likes: 23
From: Summit, Mississippi
An old-time fix for automatic transmissions that won't back-up or shift properly....is a cup-full of brake fluid. Brake fluid will cause the seals to swell and you can get a lot more miles out of it. I know....I have tried it and it works. I doubt that it will "instantly" swell an 0-ring enough for a quick fix, but I generally lube all my rubber components and o-rings with DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid during reassembly.
Advanced
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
From: Palm Bay, Florida
An old-time fix for automatic transmissions that won't back-up or shift properly....is a cup-full of brake fluid. Brake fluid will cause the seals to swell and you can get a lot more miles out of it. I know....I have tried it and it works. I doubt that it will "instantly" swell an 0-ring enough for a quick fix, but I generally lube all my rubber components and o-rings with DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid during reassembly.
Road Warrior
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,476
Likes: 23
From: Summit, Mississippi
I thought it was pretty foolish myself...until I did it. I took my wife's Explorer to an old mechanic I know and told him it was becoming very "slow" to back-up and depending on the temperature, it may take it as long as a minute before it would finally move. He told me to pour around a cup-full of brake fluid in the thing. I had nothing to lose as I was facing a tranny rebuild one-way-or-another. After she ran it around a day-or-so....things got much better and she drove it on another 25,000 miles or so until we gave it to the grandson for his first ride. He ran it into the ground...never had a problem and eventually sold it to a buddy of his. As far as I know....it's still backing up.
I later mentioned this "fix" to a friend of mine that works in another city who rebuilds auto-trannys on the side. He is a drag racer (weekend hobby) and he told me....yep...the brake fluid will make the seals swell and it will work like a champ...until they swell enough to possibly pop out of the housing and then that will be it. In this case, the thing is still going strong and must have well over 100K on it since I added the brake fluid.
Too bad I had not asked about 3-years earlier. I paid for a $1300 tranny rebuild job on a Chevy my wife had at the time, because it would not back up. I wish I had known about the brake fluid trick then.
Brake fluid can't possibly do any harm to an o-ring and should be a good assembly lube. Brake master cylinders and calipers are full of rubber components. Whether it would cause a leaky o-ring to swell enough in a short period of time is another issue...I doubt it. I also think there are some rubber formulations that don't like brake fluid, but all you are doing here in the fuel system is soaking it one time and the fuel will wash away what little is left on it after installation.
I later mentioned this "fix" to a friend of mine that works in another city who rebuilds auto-trannys on the side. He is a drag racer (weekend hobby) and he told me....yep...the brake fluid will make the seals swell and it will work like a champ...until they swell enough to possibly pop out of the housing and then that will be it. In this case, the thing is still going strong and must have well over 100K on it since I added the brake fluid.
Too bad I had not asked about 3-years earlier. I paid for a $1300 tranny rebuild job on a Chevy my wife had at the time, because it would not back up. I wish I had known about the brake fluid trick then.
Brake fluid can't possibly do any harm to an o-ring and should be a good assembly lube. Brake master cylinders and calipers are full of rubber components. Whether it would cause a leaky o-ring to swell enough in a short period of time is another issue...I doubt it. I also think there are some rubber formulations that don't like brake fluid, but all you are doing here in the fuel system is soaking it one time and the fuel will wash away what little is left on it after installation.
Road Master
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 796
Likes: 0
From: Mission Viejo, CA
Yea, so that didn't work.
Road Warrior
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,476
Likes: 23
From: Summit, Mississippi
Guys....I realize the differences between these quick-connect fittings you are talking about and I know they differ from the pre 00 fittings.
Go over the the sticky under "do it yourself" and look at Practical and Economical Fix for MM fuel Lines". Like I said....I know the older fittings are not like the ones you have, but from reading all the issues with fuel leaks on this thread....it must be a really serious problem. I am wondering if it would be possible to just remove the quick-connect attachment and plumb it by some other means? If I had one in my hand I could figure it out, but I don't and I don't own a bike with the quick connect fitting. I just can't see why something could not be done to the fitting on the tank to modify it to accept some NPT thread that would allow you to change that connection to an AN style attachment. If you can get the inside of that fitting tapped-out to a NPT...you can easily find and adapter to screw in there and then change your hose-end to match the adapter.
I could be all wet....but you can dig around and fool with o-rings if you want to keep on doing it, or find an alternative.
.
Go over the the sticky under "do it yourself" and look at Practical and Economical Fix for MM fuel Lines". Like I said....I know the older fittings are not like the ones you have, but from reading all the issues with fuel leaks on this thread....it must be a really serious problem. I am wondering if it would be possible to just remove the quick-connect attachment and plumb it by some other means? If I had one in my hand I could figure it out, but I don't and I don't own a bike with the quick connect fitting. I just can't see why something could not be done to the fitting on the tank to modify it to accept some NPT thread that would allow you to change that connection to an AN style attachment. If you can get the inside of that fitting tapped-out to a NPT...you can easily find and adapter to screw in there and then change your hose-end to match the adapter.
I could be all wet....but you can dig around and fool with o-rings if you want to keep on doing it, or find an alternative.
.
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Road Master
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,017
Likes: 2
From: New Jersey
No lube is going to fix the problem. What happens is, after disconnecting the fitting and putting it back in with the oring dry, the oring actually tears on the edge. It needs to be replaced. The oring is actually around the perimeter of the fitting. It is not all the way up inside. If you notice the indent on the end of the fitting that is attached to the fuel line, that "indent" is where the oring settles in when the fitting is in the fuel tank fitting. I use a inspection mirror and a pick to get the oring out. Gas will not pour out.. the only time it may squirt out a little is while digging up inside the fitting, you sometimes touch the center pin, causing some gas to be released. The 11273 part number oring works like a charm..it is an oil drain oring.
Advanced
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
From: Palm Bay, Florida
I'm sorry I haven't updated my progress sooner...but I didn't replace the quick disconnect fitting until last Saturday.
I've been burried with night classes and didn't have the time to replace it until I got a little break from school.
Anyway...It was a little bit of the PITA to get the conveluted tubing off and then on the fuel fitting that is attached to the under side of the top cap assembly...but I got it.
Lessons learned:
*Use the HD service manual...it breaks everything down very well.
*Replace the top cap rubber gasket and all sealed screws.
A HD service tech recommed that.
*Make sure the parts person doesn't give you a gasket for a Deuce...they are both pictured on the same service drawing.
*When you cut off the old fuel line clamp...be careful not to slice your finger open...that sucker is sharp...also be extra careful not to drop anything in the tank.
* You can clamp the new one on using a dull set of side cutters.
*Don't try to catch residual fuel with a plastic cup from the kitchen....fuel will eat right through it....and be prepared for a little residual fuel to come out...maybe a quarter cup.
* coat the new rubber washers with a little HD engine oil prior to install.
Other than that...It took a couple hours....and I've ridden 100 miles since with no runs, drips or errors. Hope that helps.
I want to formally thank everyone on the forum who helped.
We are very blessed to have this forum and all the great folks on it who are always willing to lend advise. "Much appreciated"
Bike week starts today...so I think I'm ready to make the trip.
Thanks again everyone!!! :-)
I've been burried with night classes and didn't have the time to replace it until I got a little break from school.
Anyway...It was a little bit of the PITA to get the conveluted tubing off and then on the fuel fitting that is attached to the under side of the top cap assembly...but I got it.
Lessons learned:
*Use the HD service manual...it breaks everything down very well.
*Replace the top cap rubber gasket and all sealed screws.
A HD service tech recommed that.
*Make sure the parts person doesn't give you a gasket for a Deuce...they are both pictured on the same service drawing.
*When you cut off the old fuel line clamp...be careful not to slice your finger open...that sucker is sharp...also be extra careful not to drop anything in the tank.
* You can clamp the new one on using a dull set of side cutters.
*Don't try to catch residual fuel with a plastic cup from the kitchen....fuel will eat right through it....and be prepared for a little residual fuel to come out...maybe a quarter cup.
* coat the new rubber washers with a little HD engine oil prior to install.
Other than that...It took a couple hours....and I've ridden 100 miles since with no runs, drips or errors. Hope that helps.
I want to formally thank everyone on the forum who helped.
We are very blessed to have this forum and all the great folks on it who are always willing to lend advise. "Much appreciated"
Bike week starts today...so I think I'm ready to make the trip.
Thanks again everyone!!! :-)