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Dipstick Blowing Out at High RPM

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Old Sep 25, 2009 | 03:16 PM
  #21  
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Thanks, but I think that you may be mistaken. Those holes are already much bigger than 3/32. Anybody else want to take a stab?
 
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Old Sep 26, 2009 | 06:30 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by jdscycle
You might want to do a leak down test on your cylinders to check the ring seal. Next check your crank case to be sure that there is sot to much oil in your sump. After that, you could remove your dip stick mount, drill and tap a 14/20 hole in the side, drill a hole in the dip stick being careful not to drill into the dip stick itself and simply screw in a 1/4" bolt to lock the dipstick in.
That is similar to what I did. I drilled a hole directly thru the dip stick mount and rubber part of the stick, and ran a cotter pin all the way thru.

Also, I would run a full quart low of oil and make sure that motor is venting and breathing properly.
 
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Old Oct 12, 2009 | 06:58 AM
  #23  
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I think if you check sevice manual, it says 3.5 quarts is the max.
 
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Old Oct 12, 2009 | 07:49 AM
  #24  
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First, what is included in your build? Did the builder change the oil pump? Lifters? etc. I had a similar problem with a 116" twin cam build 6 years ago. I was running a feuling oil pump with the S&S breather fix (can't think of the name of it, fits behind the oil pump). It was in a 1999 Road King with the breather line from the engine going to the top of the transmission vice to the oil filler neck. Feuling blamed S&S, S&S blamed Feuling. I went with the S&S fix, e.g. converted to the motor breather line going to oil filler neck, removed Feuling pump and installed stock pump...
 
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Old Feb 3, 2010 | 06:38 PM
  #25  
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im havin this same problem.
i replaced the breather tubes with newer o ring style they are puffin equally. i was in the real cold below freezing could this be the prob also did 50 miles of dirt roads...
2005 flhti v&h 2 into 1 stage 2 remap have had 12000 miles of no problems till this.
i am on my 3rd dipstick last one must have went into someones back yard or on the roof. just drilled and tapped a tech12 line on to the dipstick and rigged it so i will never loose this one, but it can still pop out and make a mess. i have been riding it today a little at a time and letting it get nice and warm and it seems to be cleaning up.
i am not hammering it i am kinda taking it easy only time it smokes is on downshiffting. thanx for any help guys.
tim
 
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Old Feb 3, 2010 | 10:35 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Road King Kid
OK, I pulled the rocker covers off and replaced the filter. Although the filters were filthy, and covered with oil, it did not seem that they were restricting too much air. So the question is now, which holes do I need to drill out? I am assuming that I need to take off the entire rocker box in order to get to them?
Should have replaced the plastic breather covers with the metal covers while you were in there. Not saying that's your problem, just saying the plastic pieces get brittle and curl and the metal ones don't.

Venting the breathers to the atmosphere will help too.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2010 | 06:08 AM
  #27  
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If the motor is smoking on decell, It might be time for a freshen up on the heads/cylinders. Excessive blow by will cause this to happen. Also, don't forget to drill,tap and screw a safety bolt in your dip stick housing. It is not worth the chance of oiling your tire and having an accident while you are working on this problem.
What are your build spects?
 
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Old Feb 4, 2010 | 06:39 PM
  #28  
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Got to go back to basics.

If the engine, including the oil tank (all the same system), is pressuring up. Ask yourself, WHY?

What would cause that?

There is a whole lot of air movement in the engine as the pistons go up and down. This is not what you all are talking about.
Oil goes everywhere and gets separated at the separator. This is not what will cause high pressure.

Plugged vents or leaking past pistons rings. Once had a Mud Dauber plug up a vent hole.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2010 | 09:06 AM
  #29  
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Default eureka I found it...

you think this will make the dipstick blow out?

 
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Old Feb 8, 2010 | 10:09 AM
  #30  
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Test the breather umbrellas by trying to blow into them. They should only work one way. If you can blow into either one the pressure will never drop to a near vacume state and venting will be aggressive enough to blow the cap off. Just did a 113 build and had James gasket set with it. Tested the umbrellas before bolting it together. Both leaked. Fired them in the garbage and put the stockers back in since they only had 13 k on them. The James name is embosed on the edge of the disc and this causes a warped area that leaks. DUH.
If you've covered all the other basics, do a leakdown test on the cyls, since breathers are only capable of so much flow and after that put pressure on the cap. Rings can fail at low milage also so don't assume they are not the problem.
Ron
 
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