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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 08:55 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Dalton
A question and a couple of comments djl.

When you recommend staying away from the HD tapered pushrods, this is the first I have heard of this. Have you heard of, or have first hand experience with problems?

As far as Headquarters saying you will not get the results unless you go with a complete package, that is true if doing a complete build, such as dont go with an S&S cam with the rest of the components being HQ. For a cam swap only, the HQ 500 or 525 cams are a real good choice for the newer baggers and will provide nice results on their own. The 500 will move the torque farther down in the rpm range than the 525. Kinda like the Andrews 21 and 26, it's all in the riding style, but again, they will do nicely.
I have had two of the SE tapered pushrod adjustor nuts crack on the inside when tightening. The crack was on the inside and not visible from the outside. The results are a loose adjustor and a pushrod that "unadjusts" and an intake or exhaust valve stops operating and brings your ride to a sudden halt; not a roadside fix. If the nut comes completely off and bounces around in the lifter cavity it can damage the lifter retainer clip, which can pop out and get eaten by the oil pump. I know of two others that have experienced the adjustor nut problem and they have reported that they have heard of others. Additionally, the skinny adjustor stem will flex in a serious performance engine; I just won't use them.

Your call on the HQ stuff but their stuff is a little unique and, IMHO, designe to work together and not with other aftermarket components. I just believe there are too many other options and wouldn't use a HQ cam without the HQ heads and then you are stuck with them but that's JMHO.
 
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Old Oct 20, 2009 | 11:46 AM
  #12  
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djl,

Thanks for the info on the SE tapered pushrods. I have not heard of any issues up to this point. Actually had a Rivera Taperlite pushrod shatter where the tip is pressed into the shaft a couple of years ago up in Vermont on a trip. Just chalked it up to a mfg. defect.

Yes, HQ is in many ways different than a lot of other items, but the cams are solid performers as a bolt in. JMHO
 

Last edited by Dalton; Oct 20, 2009 at 11:49 AM.
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Old Oct 20, 2009 | 06:39 PM
  #13  
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Yup, had 3 S/e nuts crack on me as well.

I only use S+S or smith brothers now. Never a problem there!
 
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Old Oct 21, 2009 | 05:09 AM
  #14  
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Had the same here quite some time ago.
Nothing but S&S, seeing how they have made pushrods now, for over 50 years.
Scott
 
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Old Oct 21, 2009 | 09:48 PM
  #15  
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Follow-up, I have heard that after you install the 255 Cam, a number of bikes develop a slight ticking sound in the low-mid rpm's. Has anyone heard of or experienced this? Also, would it make sense to install the 103 SE Stage II Kit with a com other than the 255?
 
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Old Oct 22, 2009 | 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Philly76
Follow-up, I have heard that after you install the 255 Cam, a number of bikes develop a slight ticking sound in the low-mid rpm's. Has anyone heard of or experienced this? Also, would it make sense to install the 103 SE Stage II Kit with a com other than the 255?
I haven't heard of thet ticking sound thing; I thought they all did that. Seriously, the 255 is not that bad a cam unless you want performance above 4500rpm. It will make 100+TQ without headwork but not much HP; low 80s. But on a bagger, the cam is not that bad and a cheap upgrade. There are aftermarket products that will make power longer but would void your warranty.
 

Last edited by djl; Oct 22, 2009 at 01:42 PM.
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Old Oct 22, 2009 | 12:59 PM
  #17  
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DJL - appreciate the responce. I think you are on the mark with this as a good overall option for the dollar.
 
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