Pushrod came loose.....
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Tourer
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 494
Likes: 1
From: Paola, Kansas
Pushrod came loose.....
The one part of this cam swap I didn't like was how tight to get the stupid lock nut. The front intake pushrod came loose while riding today, about 40 miles. I tightened it back up and made it home. Took both front pushrods out and it doesn't look like anything was hurt. Threads were a bit rough running it in to get it out, but fine after that. I guess all the overtightening stories I've heard (nuts breaking, etc.) must have been from guys a hell of a lot stronger than me. Chalk another one up for experience.
HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: san antonio
Its got nothng to do with strength. The cracked/busted nuts that I am aware of have been on the SE Tapered Quick Install pushrods; I have had two come loose. Both were cracked on tightening but the crack started from the inside and could not be seen from the outside. The nuts appear to be made of poor quaity case metal of some sort. I haven't checked the country of origing but I would wager Taiwan or mainland China; I won't use those pushrods again.
The last one that came loose allowed the puhsrod to back off enough that it bounced around out of the pushrod "pocket" and dislodged the retainer clip at the of the pushrod. A few weeks later, it worked its way into the oil pump; bad juju.
The last one that came loose allowed the puhsrod to back off enough that it bounced around out of the pushrod "pocket" and dislodged the retainer clip at the of the pushrod. A few weeks later, it worked its way into the oil pump; bad juju.
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Tourer
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 494
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From: Paola, Kansas
I'm using the SE pushrods. A lot of respected guys recommend them too. To me the quality looks alright, but I don't like the "slop" in the threads. I'm not jumping to conclusions at all, but if it happens again, I'll try the S&S. I was honestly surprised that the pushrod was ok. I put about 10 miles on it this afternoon and it ran fine.
I was surprised how quick it loosened up too. It was defintely out of the pocket, running on one cylinder. Now it's got me wondering.
I was surprised how quick it loosened up too. It was defintely out of the pocket, running on one cylinder. Now it's got me wondering.
Last edited by 2wheeltom77; Mar 6, 2010 at 08:42 PM.
HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 12,776
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From: san antonio
I'm using the SE pushrods. A lot of respected guys recommend them too. To me the quality looks alright, but I don't like the "slop" in the threads. I'm not jumping to conclusions at all, but if it happens again, I'll try the S&S. I was honestly surprised that the pushrod was ok. I put about 10 miles on it this afternoon and it ran fine.
I was surprised how quick it loosened up too. It was defintely out of the pocket, running on one cylinder. Now it's got me wondering.
I was surprised how quick it loosened up too. It was defintely out of the pocket, running on one cylinder. Now it's got me wondering.
HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 12,776
Likes: 2,607
From: san antonio
I forgot to add that unless the altered geometry of the build requires adjustables, I stick with the stock push rods and the stockers will work more often than not.
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Tourer
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 494
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From: Paola, Kansas
Well, in hindsight, I should have stuck with my original plan of spending extra parts money on pulling the heads for porting, and reusing the stockers.
I put another 30 miles on it since retightening, and checked them out of paranoia today. All were tight except that same pushrod. It wasn't loose, but I got a bit of a turn on it. I'm new to working on harley motors, but have been wrenching for many years, and it's one of those deals where something doesn't feel right with it. I decided to order another set and just replace that one. $153.90 is cheaper than a new motor, but would also buy several bottles of Evan Willams........hmm...
Looking back I was pissed off originally when I bought them as the package had been opened. The dealer had them wrapped in a nice plastic bag with the label on it and everything, so I didn't notice until later when I was doing the work. Maybe I bought someone else's headache, I don't know. Bottom line I'll put a new one in hopefully this coming weekend, and this problem will go away.
I put another 30 miles on it since retightening, and checked them out of paranoia today. All were tight except that same pushrod. It wasn't loose, but I got a bit of a turn on it. I'm new to working on harley motors, but have been wrenching for many years, and it's one of those deals where something doesn't feel right with it. I decided to order another set and just replace that one. $153.90 is cheaper than a new motor, but would also buy several bottles of Evan Willams........hmm...
Looking back I was pissed off originally when I bought them as the package had been opened. The dealer had them wrapped in a nice plastic bag with the label on it and everything, so I didn't notice until later when I was doing the work. Maybe I bought someone else's headache, I don't know. Bottom line I'll put a new one in hopefully this coming weekend, and this problem will go away.
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 2,543
Likes: 19
From: Ashland Ohio
http://www.pushrods.net/
Google Smith Pushrods. Call them and buy the EZ install pushrods for Twin Cam Harley. I just did and they are WAY different than cheap a$$ SE Tapers I am running right now for sure. The Smith's look NOTHING like the SE Tapers. The directions for the Smith's even say to use locktite and supply the locktite.
On this forum, you guys don't hear too much engine stuff, because this forum isn't KNOWN for engine oriented builds... this is the CHROME forum and SEAT forum, and EXHAUST sound forum.
Times ARE changing and a LOT of us are over here quite a bit.
On the OTHER forums, about a year ago, the SE tapered P Rods started getting a bad rep. The locking nuts simply are no good. I HAVE tapered SEs in my bike, too. And felt I was good as long as I left well enough alone. But, now that I am going to swap out lifters, those pushrods are history.
Smith Brothers is the ONLY name in pushrods, ALL others are secondary. Every single professional drag racer, boat racer and every NASCAR team in existence uses Smith Brothers. If it is a pushrod motor, and it is professionally raced.... Smith's are Number ONE. Now that Smith is into our twin cams.... why buy anything else.
$152.70 shipped to Ohio for the EZ install pushrods. Took seven days to arrive. SE junk for the same price! HAHAHAH
Google Smith Pushrods. Call them and buy the EZ install pushrods for Twin Cam Harley. I just did and they are WAY different than cheap a$$ SE Tapers I am running right now for sure. The Smith's look NOTHING like the SE Tapers. The directions for the Smith's even say to use locktite and supply the locktite.
On this forum, you guys don't hear too much engine stuff, because this forum isn't KNOWN for engine oriented builds... this is the CHROME forum and SEAT forum, and EXHAUST sound forum.
Times ARE changing and a LOT of us are over here quite a bit.
On the OTHER forums, about a year ago, the SE tapered P Rods started getting a bad rep. The locking nuts simply are no good. I HAVE tapered SEs in my bike, too. And felt I was good as long as I left well enough alone. But, now that I am going to swap out lifters, those pushrods are history.
Smith Brothers is the ONLY name in pushrods, ALL others are secondary. Every single professional drag racer, boat racer and every NASCAR team in existence uses Smith Brothers. If it is a pushrod motor, and it is professionally raced.... Smith's are Number ONE. Now that Smith is into our twin cams.... why buy anything else.
$152.70 shipped to Ohio for the EZ install pushrods. Took seven days to arrive. SE junk for the same price! HAHAHAH
Last edited by wurk_truk; Mar 8, 2010 at 06:50 PM.
HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 12,776
Likes: 2,607
From: san antonio
Smith does supply the loctite but they also tell you to use a drop between the jam nut surfaces. If you get the loctite on the threads, you will be swearing never again the next time you have to adjust them.