I just purchased a 01 Heritage with EFI.Milage on the bike is just under 6,000 miles.I have noticed the eng light will come on and go off while riding. I did not notice it the first time I rode the bike,but it could have been for all I know. When I turn the key on I let it set up and the light will go out and come back on ,so I wait a few more seconds and it will go off again then I will start it.The eng runs excellent and I cannot notice any difference in the eng sound whether the light is on or off while riding.The bike is pretty much bone stock with no mods other than possibly some tampering with the mufflers .It may be a little louder than I would think a stock muffler would be ,but I would not say it feels lean.I have not looked at the plugs yet.Could this be a code that is stored in the memory?

 

You can try this proceedure and it should tell you where thr problem lies, it could have been something like a bad start ( kickback) that set a code and if it is saved and the a trouble is not present , the light should go out after 50 start run cycles of at least 30 seconds each

1. Locate the data link connector in the seat area. Remove protective plug from data link connector. 2. To activate the diagnostic feature, proceed as follows:a. Create diagnostic test wire from parts shown ( you can use a female spade connecter and close the connection down a bit). b. Install diagnostic test wire across Terminals 1 and 2 on the data link connector. c. Turn Ignition/Light Key Switch to IGNITION and wait approximately 10 seconds (4 seconds lamp ON, 6 seconds lamp OFF) for check engine lamp to start flashing. 3. All trouble codes are sent out as a series of flashes. To retrieve the first digit of the trouble code simply observe the number of times the lamp flashes.a. The lamp will then flash one or more times to indicate the first digit of the trouble code. The length of time the lamp is illuminated and the length of time in which it is off are each about 0.5 second in duration.4. The second digit follows:a. Following the transmission of the first digit, there is a 1.2 second pause in which the lamp is off.b. The lamp will then flash one or more times to indicate the second digit of the trouble code. Count the number of times the lamp flashes to retrieve the second digit.5. If more than one trouble code is sent:a. Following transmission of the second digit of the first code, there is a 3 second pause in which the lamp is off.b. Once all codes have been sent, the data string is repeated. When you have recorded the same trouble code twice, it is an indication that the transmission has been restarted and that all trouble codes have been retrieved.IMPORTANT NOTEIf diagnostic test wire is installed across Pins 1 and 2 on connector in lieu of a Scanalyzer, the ECM is placed in a diagnostic test mode and the engine will start. The test wire must be removed from the data connector and the ignition switch turned OFF or the check engine lamp will continue to flash codes.A historic trouble code resides in the memory of the ECM until the code is cleared by use of the Scanalyzer or a total of 50 trips has elapsed. A “trip” consists of a start and run cycle, the run cycle lasting at least 30 seconds. After the 50 trip retention period, the trouble code is automatically erased from memory (that is, assuming no subsequent faults of the same type are detected in that period). The numbers after the 'historic' or 'current' is the speedo code number, but without the electrical diognostics manual you're peeing into the wind.1 Current 53 ECM flash error 2 Historic 53 ECM flash error 3 Current 54 ECM EEPROM error 4 Historic 54 ECM EEPROM error 5 Current 63 ECM serial data low 6 Current 63 ECM serial data open/high 7 Current 63 TSSM serial data low 8 Current 63 TSSM serial data open/high 9 Current 61 Loss of TSM/TSSM serial data 10 Current 14 Loss of all ECM serial data (state of health)10 24 Loss of vehicle speed10 33 Loss of vehicle inhibit motion10 43 Loss of powertrain security status11 Current 33 System relay contacts open 12 Current 33 System relay coil high/shorted 13 Current 33 System relay coil open/low 14 Current 33 System relay contacts closed 15 Current 99 Incorrect password 16 Current 99 Missing password 17 Current 41 CKP sensor intermittent 18 Current 41 CKP sensor synch error 19 Current 11 TP sensor open/low 20 Current 11 TP sensor high 21 Current 12 MAP sensor open/low 22 Current 12 MAP sensor high 23 Current 14 ET sensor voltage low 24 Current 14 ET sensor open/high 25 Current 15 IAT sensor voltage low 26 Current 15 IAT sensor open/high 27 Current 24 Front ignition coil open/low 28 Current 25 Rear ignition coil open/low 29 Current 24 Front ignition

 

Thank you for the info,it obviously took alot of time to type all that info.The procedure sounds very simular to testing the codes on a GM product built in the late 80"s I had. I used a unfolded paper clip to cross the termilals.TCSTD you certainly have a head full of "knowage",thanks for sharing with us "without knowey"s".

 

More than happy to share something that could save others a trip to the stealer.

It is much easier as I mentioned to use a female spade clip and close it down and it slides right over the two terminals (perfect spacing). You don't want to cross it up with the other terminals.

"without knowey"s"............ Heck , where all in the same boat here, like family!

 

Can you purchase a kit or tool to check the codes?

 

So what was your code idunno? Or have you checked it yet. I made mine out of some female pins I got from a plug on a FORD. It looked like http://webpages.charter.net/jimtjr11...ndonorplug.JPG that. I needed it to wire some heated/lighted signal mirrors on my truck. (Did not have them originally on my model)
Anyway, I took two of the female pins I didn't use. Soldered the wires together and made my own "jumper" worked great. (If you have a salvage yard close, it would be convienent. If not then maybe Radio Shack has the pins, and you could make one.)

I still have an occasional light on mine, (Seems to go out after about 10 seconds of riding.) I had it before too, with the bad cam bearing. I bought a new sensor, put it in, light went out. Then came back after a piece of bearing cage went in between it and the gears breaking the sensor. The other was not literally broken, I reinstalled it thinking the reason I had the code, was maybe movement in the old cams?

Anyway, I am going to give it key cycles and see what happens. If it continues, I suppose I will buy another, (If infact it has the same CPS codes it had before)

 

I had a similar problem with the engine light.
After many hours of checking codes and troubleshooting, it turned out to be a loose ground wire on the battery. Duh, and I did not check the obvoious first.