I dont know if its aligned right but I checked for sumping. How do I know if its aligned right? They are running as quieter than stock.

 

On Andrews cams their is a dot on each cam. The dots need to be aligned with each other. Look at the pic in the middle of this page. If it is not aligned correctly it will put the cams off a tooth. The bike could run ok but not have full power. Did you install the cams? If not, ask the mechanic to verify.

If it were me, I'd get a TTS Mastertune before I paid $525 for a tune.

http://www.harleyhog.co.uk/camguidepage2.htm

 

Infanterene
There is nothing wrong with your engine.
What I meant earlier is that right now what you have are very good parts. Assuming correct install what you are getting is about right. Give or take a little.

The point I was making is with stock heads, and some will argue, 85 HP is about all you can get thru the things. Maybe there is some tuning to get a little more but not much. Except for normal riding and some fun I wouldn't spend much on tuning till the heads are done. Just have to redo and spend another 300-500.

The cams are there waiting to do the rest of their job.

Since you are racing your friend, as a compare, the tuning could address the higher RPMs. However this friend tuned the bike maybe richen up the above 3500 RPM area.

That is just the sceem of all engines. I understand cost. Seems, do the cams first, or do the top end first. Gotta make a choice sometime.

Either one by itself gives about the same result. Then there is TB, and injectors but that is a nother story.

 

Won't comment on pipes, except to say that I once built two 80-inch engines that were identical except for pipes, and one made 82 horsepower and the other made 76--on the same dyno. Also, my Brother is a "pipe freak" and has gone through more pipes on one bike than most people do in a lifetime. What we've seen is that pipes can make a real difference, and many (most?) of the popular "stylish" ones are not too good from a performance perspective. The major factor seems to be the style of pipe, more than the brand.

As to AFR: Your ***-dyno wouldn't be able to tell the difference between 13.5 and 14.0 AFR. Having said that, I'd probably try something more like 12.5-12.8:1 to see if that bike likes a richer mixture. Just going to 13.5 probably won't make much difference over 14. Also, (assuming you have the ability) make your tuner-guy set up the "cruise" settings for around 14.5:1 or somewhat leaner, with the "power" settings at 12.5-13.0:1. I tune all of them that way, and I've lived with mine like that for many years. 14.x is not too lean, no matter what any "expert" in here or in a magazine tells you. Your gas mileage will be much better, too.

Many dyno operators will try to tune for 13.5:1 or so across the board. I've asked several why, and the response kinda boils down to "it's a nice safe setting" and won't screw up the bike--meaning no lawsuit/no bad publicity. My opinion is sorta that a successful tuner is too busy to ride much, and doesn't have an opportunity to live with various AFRs on any given combination for any length of time, so they go for the middle of the road. That is not a criticism, nor am I showing any disrespect, but like anyone else, they are in business and time is money. They don't have much incentive to do long-term experimenting. Having been a shop-owner, I understand that completely.

As to the TW6: I've used the W6 and W6H (Evo equivalents) several times. That cam will make power in the mid-range and lower end of the upper range, but it is normally not a higher-RPM cam. Is it 4 advanced. or 4 retarded? One would tend to favor higher RPM and therefore higher horsepower, while the other would tend to favor higher torque at lower RPM--and not quite so much horsepower. I think they work fine straight up. See what happens if you install it that way.

Wife's TC (88-inch, stock heads, Rinehearts, stage I, PC3, 510G, which is not really a perfect combination) makes about 85 lb/ft and pretty close to 80 HP ( I don't remember exactly, and I don't feel like trying to find the old dyno sheet). Point is, You could probably see a little bit more than you do with a little tweaking, seems to me.

Final suggestion would be to quit worrying about whether you have 5-6 less horsepower than might be possible, and concentrate on how it feels where you ride most often--which is probably around town or down the highway at 70-75 MPH. All of those are mid-RPM situations where torque is important, which is where the TW6/W6 series seem to shine. If you're just interested in power, Bob has other cams that work better for that.

But as always, it's your money, so do what you want.

 

1. On all cams, there are alignment marks of some sort, not just Andrews.
2. If it were off a tooth, it probably would not even start! And if you even tried, you'd probably hear expensive valve/piston/pushrod noises immediately.
3. After the purchase of that TTS, you'd still have to pay someone to tune it, unless one were knowledgeable enough to do it themselves--and if that was true we wouldn't be seeing the questions that were asked.

Dammit! ... Naw, I'll stop there. I had a bunch more to say about "internet experts", but I'll let it go...

 

http://harleytechtalk.org/htt/index.php?topic=10296.0


https://www.hdforums.com/forum/elect...ation-157.html


Please, keep talking...

 

Could the cam be retarded instead of advanced? Run a compression check and see where you're at.

 

Hard enough to deal with a correctly assemeled machine.
If there is some suspecion the thing is put together wrong, take it apart and check.
Must start from good foundation. Just no other way. Have to know where you are at to get where you want to go.

Easy for me to say, I'm 72 and have been most places.

 

Ran across it this morning and reminded me of your numerous incorrect assessment's. For your edification ~



https://www.hdforums.com/forum/7244569-post5.html

 

I think something is off somewhere, here is my dyno sheet with the 6-6's, and the set-up's aren't "that different". We've both got a Stage 1 with cams. All of the people above talking about "matching components" are right, but in this situation, there aren't that many variables other than pipes and cam choice, and your cam choice is fine. I'm not familiar with those pipes, so I can't comment on if they're your problem of not. Between you and I, there is a 14-15 HP difference and a 19-20 TQ difference, so something just doesn't jive here. I'm just not good enough to be able to tell you what's off with yours. I hope you get it figured out though, because you've got a lot left on the table right now. And 525 is a lot for a tune. I had Jamie at fuelmoto do mine and he only charged me 195.00.