Head work
I was with a friend of mine who was told by a service writer at one of the local dealerships that he'd have to have his heads pulled to change cams unless they used the quickee pushrods. I sometimes wonder how much extra labor some guys pay because they don't know what a job entails.
not mad at all. Amused, yes.
Last edited by Mike; Apr 26, 2011 at 12:10 AM.
Road Master
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 853
Likes: 5
From: Mnpls MN
Boogidude,
the part about the pushrods is not my stuff. Dont know where you got it.
Can you tell me if its recommended or not to re ring if you upset the cylinder position upon removing the heads? I'd really like to know cause some indies recommend it. I'm not as knowledgable as you.
Can you help me out of this hole. I've actually stopped digging.
After this, you can give this thread back to the OP. Sorry bigdog.
the part about the pushrods is not my stuff. Dont know where you got it.
Can you tell me if its recommended or not to re ring if you upset the cylinder position upon removing the heads? I'd really like to know cause some indies recommend it. I'm not as knowledgable as you.
Can you help me out of this hole. I've actually stopped digging.
After this, you can give this thread back to the OP. Sorry bigdog.
There's some real clowns on the forums, that's for sure.
I was with a friend of mine who was told by a service writer at one of the local dealerships that he'd have to have his heads pulled to change cams unless they used the quickee pushrods. I sometimes wonder how much extra labor some guys pay because they don't know what a job entails.
LMAFO! dude, you're just digging the hole deeper.......
not mad at all. Amused, yes.
I was with a friend of mine who was told by a service writer at one of the local dealerships that he'd have to have his heads pulled to change cams unless they used the quickee pushrods. I sometimes wonder how much extra labor some guys pay because they don't know what a job entails.
LMAFO! dude, you're just digging the hole deeper.......
not mad at all. Amused, yes.
Boogidude,
the part about the pushrods is not my stuff. Dont know where you got it.
Can you tell me if its recommended or not to re ring if you upset the cylinder position upon removing the heads? I'd really like to know cause some indies recommend it. I'm not as knowledgable as you.
Can you help me out of this hole. I've actually stopped digging.
After this, you can give this thread back to the OP. Sorry bigdog.
the part about the pushrods is not my stuff. Dont know where you got it.
Can you tell me if its recommended or not to re ring if you upset the cylinder position upon removing the heads? I'd really like to know cause some indies recommend it. I'm not as knowledgable as you.
Can you help me out of this hole. I've actually stopped digging.
After this, you can give this thread back to the OP. Sorry bigdog.
In my post, I explained exactly where the bad advice regarding the quickee pushrods had come from. I don't know how in the world you managed to shift the blame to yourself, but whatever. I don't pretend to understand how your brain works.
Yes, I can help you out of the hole. Stop trying to give advice about matters in which you know nothing and listen instead. You might learn something and you'll prevent future public embarassment.
back to the original thread..........
Road Master
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 853
Likes: 5
From: Mnpls MN
Thank you
Prodoucher,
In my post, I explained exactly where the bad advice regarding the quickee pushrods had come from. I don't know how in the world you managed to shift the blame to yourself, but whatever. I don't pretend to understand how your brain works.
Yes, I can help you out of the hole. Stop trying to give advice about matters in which you know nothing and listen instead. You might learn something and you'll prevent future public embarassment.
back to the original thread..........
In my post, I explained exactly where the bad advice regarding the quickee pushrods had come from. I don't know how in the world you managed to shift the blame to yourself, but whatever. I don't pretend to understand how your brain works.
Yes, I can help you out of the hole. Stop trying to give advice about matters in which you know nothing and listen instead. You might learn something and you'll prevent future public embarassment.
back to the original thread..........
Thread Starter
|
Tourer
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 323
Likes: 1
From: long island ny
head work
well my queston turned into a pissin contest,sorry i asked ,but i did get some answers from the group,well i know i'm have to get the heads done but i'm lookin for heads to purchase and get them done and do the swap ,i live in fla and long island,the tc is down in fla,i'm leavin in a week for new york,i may call your shop this week , i really would like to know what head work will do for this bike,bill
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You mentioned 304 cams in your original post, I'm assuming you mean 204s. If so, these are fairly decent bolt in cams for motors up to about 103, and will respond very well to a a street port. Having your heads ported and matched to your cams will net more power than just bumping your displacment up to 103.
However, with your heads off, it's a fairly simple task to pull your jugs and pistons and go to 103 or even 107. If you decide to go to bigger jugs, you'll want to make that decision before you send your heads in, so your combustion chambers can be set appropriately.
If you want to do the job once, and be done with it, go ahead and take it to 107, and have your heads ported and compression set to run W555 or Andrews 54 cams. Hillside has a very good head program and for about 750 bucks or so will dial your heads in for the 107/555 build, which is a proven performer.
"However, with your heads off, it's a fairly simple task to pull your jugs and pistons and go to 103 or even 107. If you decide to go to bigger jugs, you'll want to make that decision before you send your heads in, so your combustion chambers can be set appropriately."
This is exactly what I ended up doing. The shop that did my work said they wouldn't charge me any more $$ in labor to r&r the cylinders once the heads were off for work. I ended up buying a set of SE 103" flat tops on EBay for $120 and had my cylinders bored-honed for $120. $240 for going 96" > 103" was a no brainer for me at that point....
This is exactly what I ended up doing. The shop that did my work said they wouldn't charge me any more $$ in labor to r&r the cylinders once the heads were off for work. I ended up buying a set of SE 103" flat tops on EBay for $120 and had my cylinders bored-honed for $120. $240 for going 96" > 103" was a no brainer for me at that point....